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Routes in The Weasel Formation

Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Devastator Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Horus Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Little Weasel Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Live Free or Die Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Ozymandias T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Rooster, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Sodizin Tower. Bat out of Hell. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 240 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter, John Glime. 16th June, 2008
Page Views: 2,497 total, 22/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jun 19, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

. Situated on the Weasel left of the central climb of Ozymandias. The detached tower in the shape of Horus the Egyptian Hawk God.A fun tower with great situations on the final pitch. The climb starts up the thinner right hand crack on the right side of the tower. P1)Climb a short easy chimney to a ledge then follow steep cracks on the right,odd free moves ,strenuous.( Now that its cleaned it might go free at about 5.10ish)The crack leads to a large sloping ledge at the gap between the tower and the main wall . Double anchors 160'5.8 C1/2 P2).Follow bolt ladder out left below the big roof to the exposed edge ,then straight up the face to a short slab ,climb this to a fine summit.80'5.6 C1. Register in cairn. Descent . Single 60m rope rap to the gap then double rope rap from top of P1 to the ground

Location

On the Weasel formation just left of Ozymandias

Protection

Cams for first pitch:- Double rack from 1/2" to 3" then three # 3.5. two 4" two #5 friends and one # 6 friend might be of use. Stoppers. Slings ,about 15 quick draws /biners. Two 60m ropes .
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Well done Kory . The bolted wall on P2 will be a bit tough to free !
Aug 31, 2017
Soloed this yesterday. Great route. It would be really fun to free. This ascent was apparently the third. One other party (according to the register) summited in 2011. Jan 5, 2014
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Dear Leonard . Will be nice to see you both in the fall.However must point out that your team is obligated to provide the refreshments.Its an old San Rafael tradition. Actually the only reason we climb there (including the summer months) is in order to get a really good dehydration.So.....bring plenty Jun 29, 2008
Paul,

Looks brilliant. I'll be stateside come Sept 08 with my mate (who you met Mick Haffner). Let's hook up and climb in the Swell,

Best Regards,

Leonard Coyne Jun 29, 2008
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
 
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Actually a very fun route. You won't be disappointed. Jun 19, 2008