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Routes in Half Dome

Autobahn T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blondike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Deuceldike T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Eye in the Sky T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Growing Up T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c A0
Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Snake Dike T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Southwest Face, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two Hoofers T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: John Salathé & Anton Nelson, 1946
Page Views: 21,416 total, 186/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Jun 19, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The first modern climbing route on Half Dome, and the first grade V in Yosemite.

Freed in about 1964 by Sacherer, Kamps, and Lichtman, this climb was popular in the late 1960s and early 1970s, but fell out of favor with the rise of clean climbing. With recent advances in clean gear, the protection is again reasonable (G to PG) with the exception of the belay stations.

The topo and photo in Reid are excellent.

Location

About 400 feet to the left of "Snake Dike", and just left of "Blondike."

Protection

Standard rack to 4", plus extra micro nuts and micro cams.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
It would take two bolts, one at the belay on top of p2, the other at the belay at the top of p4 (and link p3 & p4). You would need to pull the bolts that are already there.

I've been thinking about the question of alternate belays, because it would be cool to have a totally clean route on Half Dome. If you stopped p2 before the traverse out of the dihedral, you could possibly build a hanging belay from good gear. And if you then climbed to the foot of the crux (partway through p4), there would be a ton of gear there. Might be worth the somewhat cramped stances to have the route go completely on clean gear ... never heard of anyone doing it that way! Jan 26, 2009
Any possibility of putting in some good belay anchors for this sucker? It would be a fantastic historical climb. Jan 24, 2009
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Thanks for adding this, Doug! A friend of mine has an epic story of climbing this with a beginner. Something about marginal anchors and lots of hanging on the rope.

"the protection is ... reasonable ... with the exception of the belay stations."

This doesn't sound too good ... is there any way to split up the piches so the anchors are better? Jun 20, 2008