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In The Pink

5.8+, Trad, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 34 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Northern Wasatch > Ogden > Ogden Canyon > Utah Wall

Description

On this route you pull over the far left end of the roof. You will need to take some protection for the lower section. After pulling over the roof there are two bolts to the end of the route. This route can be top roped after being led.

Location

First route to the right of Utah crack.

Protection

Protection needed for the lower section

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Plugging gear before firing the roof.
[Hide Photo] Plugging gear before firing the roof.
Leading In the Pink May 2008
[Hide Photo] Leading In the Pink May 2008
Turning the roof on top rope after Josh led
[Hide Photo] Turning the roof on top rope after Josh led
Melanie pulling the roof. The first bolt is on the upper face, a bit right of the rope
[Hide Photo] Melanie pulling the roof. The first bolt is on the upper face, a bit right of the rope

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

JeffUT
Roy, Utah
 
[Hide Comment] On the bottom half, you end up placing pro in small horizontal cracks. I ended up pulling the roof about 8' left of where the first bolt is located on the upper face. Not sure if that's correct or not, but trying to pull that roof directly below the 1st bolt was kicking my butt! Oct 11, 2010
wasatch-mtn-man
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Probably harder than a 5.8. We pulled the roof just left of the bolt line through a crack that angles up and left. Also used this for pro. Seems to me the bolts on the upper face are situated a bit more to the right than I would prefer.

Very fun climb. Roof is committing. Oct 21, 2010
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.9
[Hide Comment] There are two bolts on the upper face, but it is kind of awkward to go clip them. The climb sort of compels you to stay to the left of the bolts. The roof is pretty fun though. Bring some extra pieces for the upper section, as the bolts are spaced pretty far apart, and there is a long space from the 2nd bolt to the chains. Oct 22, 2010
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
 
[Hide Comment] Agree with the above. Upper bolts are too far right. A single bolt set below the roof would make this 3-stars in my mind. Sep 5, 2012
[Hide Comment] Fun little roof with a huge crack in it to stuff your hand and pro into and one big hold on the point. Good places for your feet as well. Climb over the roof left of the bolts with a couple of holds off on that side, then move right. smear your feet to follow the bolts. It can be done. May 28, 2013
[Hide Comment] The bolts are in good spots as you do the friction traverse after the roof. First half nice trad climb through the roof. Second half is a slabby dish climb through the crux to the top.
Fun route. Sep 30, 2018
Davis Bailey
Mountain Green, UT
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Surprised this route doesn’t get as much traffic as the neighboring routes. Very fun climb at the grade. The roof was easier than the roof on Apex, the crux is the smeary slab above the roof. A .5 and a .75 protected the roof. May 6, 2021