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Routes in Utah Wall

Airtime T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Apex T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apex Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love My Wife But She Doesn't Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In The Pink T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lawyers, Guns, and Money T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right of the Roof T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Shotgun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shotgun (Variation) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (TR) S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unnamed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Utah Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown (right most crack in the roof) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 226 total · 2/month
Shared By: Robert 560 on Jun 19, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

23 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

On this route you pull over the far left end of the roof. You will need to take some protection for the lower section. After pulling over the roof there are two bolts to the end of the route. This route can be top roped after being led.

Location [Suggest Change]

First route to the right of Utah crack.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Protection needed for the lower section


Roy, Utah
JeffUT   Roy, Utah
On the bottom half, you end up placing pro in small horizontal cracks. I ended up pulling the roof about 8' left of where the first bolt is located on the upper face. Not sure if that's correct or not, but trying to pull that roof directly below the 1st bolt was kicking my butt! Oct 11, 2010
Probably harder than a 5.8. We pulled the roof just left of the bolt line through a crack that angles up and left. Also used this for pro. Seems to me the bolts on the upper face are situated a bit more to the right than I would prefer.

Very fun climb. Roof is committing. Oct 21, 2010
santa clara, utah
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
There are two bolts on the upper face, but it is kind of awkward to go clip them. The climb sort of compels you to stay to the left of the bolts. The roof is pretty fun though. Bring some extra pieces for the upper section, as the bolts are spaced pretty far apart, and there is a long space from the 2nd bolt to the chains. Oct 22, 2010
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
Agree with the above. Upper bolts are too far right. A single bolt set below the roof would make this 3-stars in my mind. Sep 5, 2012
Fun little roof with a huge crack in it to stuff your hand and pro into and one big hold on the point. Good places for your feet as well. Climb over the roof left of the bolts with a couple of holds off on that side, then move right. smear your feet to follow the bolts. It can be done. May 28, 2013

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