Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Utah Wall

Airtime T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Apex T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apex Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love My Wife But She Doesn't Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In The Pink T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lawyers, Guns, and Money T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right of the Roof T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Shotgun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shotgun (Variation) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (TR) S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unnamed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Utah Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown (right most crack in the roof) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,304 total, 29/month
Shared By: Robert 560 on Jun 19, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


51 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is an obvious two pitch crack at the center of the wall. The first pitch is about 100 feet long and allot of fun. It ends at a bolted belay. Pitch two goes to the top of the cliff and a belay must be built. Walk off to the south.

Location

Center of the wall

Protection

A standard free rack is needed.
Michael Whalen  
  5.6
Awesome route!

Parked at hole in the wall and walked down to Utah Wall area, its 4th of July weekend so we had to run through the narrow sections where the shoulder disappears to avoid cars. Right after the grate on the shoulder the route is on the obvious screed trail to the left. I had three novice climbers with me so I actually established a fixed rope for them up and back down the screed and they were very pleased with that decision so I'd say if you have the time and rope it was worth it.

The climb itself was excellent, a lot of great big solid holds all the way the easily protected crack, I did use two smaller chalks but mostly cams up to #3 near the top.

Someone jammed a yellow cam pretty deep into the rock about 70ft up and there's no way to get that out, I used it with no concern but still placed a medium chalk nearby just in case.

there is a pretty loose "head-sized" rock near the first belay station so just be wary as you near it. Jul 3, 2017
Hi can someone please tell me the location of this climb I'm having a hard time finding it thanks Apr 12, 2016
William Kramer
Kemmerer, WY
  5.6
William Kramer   Kemmerer, WY
  5.6
This is a very relaxing line, just like taking a sunday afternoon stroll up the rock. Protects great all the way, did it with nothing but nuts and hexes. Aug 15, 2015
Andrew Mayer
Driggs, ID
Andrew Mayer   Driggs, ID
Pitch one is fun and recommended. Pitch 2 is not as enjoyable, due to the need to test nearly every hold prior to using. More solid than it looks but still a little unnerving. protects fairly well on small gear. 2-bolt anchor with chains if you trend a little left at the top. easy 2 rappels to the ground. Jun 7, 2015
Megan Henderson
Ogden, Utah
  5.6
Megan Henderson   Ogden, Utah
  5.6
This was my second trad lead. The first pitch is perfect for beginners because it is a nice long pitch with great stances, and easy to protect! I'd say the first pitch is 5.5. I followed on the second pitch, and I feel it is more of a 5.7 for short people. I recommend rapping off the second pitch instead of doing the walk off. The walk off is a mess and especially not fun in the dark. Lots of bushes, cacti, scrambling, and scree galore! Jun 29, 2013
An excellent place to learn placing pro., to take a beginner, or to practice climbing using one hand to improve footwork and balance. May 28, 2013
Max Dillman
  5.6
Max Dillman  
  5.6
Fun easy climb, excellents for beginners or those learning to place pro. Pitch one is very straight forward. The second pitch will make you scratch your head on where you're placing pro. There are also many loose blocks on the second pitch. Atop the second pitch there is now some really heavy duty webbing threaded through a crack. It has a rap ring on it and is excellent for getting down to pitch 1 Jun 11, 2012
Matt Brodhead
Logan, UT
Matt Brodhead   Logan, UT
This is a good place to take beginners. Sep 26, 2010
Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
  5.5
Colby Wayment   Ogden, UT
  5.5
Does anybody even know why those "hanging belay" anchors are even there? If you're going to rap, even from the top, go to the anchors on the ledge. Save yourself some trouble. Also, on top there are two sets of anchors to rap from: the obvious piton/sling rap, or the metal cable that is looped through a small hole 4 feet north of that one. The latter will be a much easier pull. Jul 6, 2010
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.6
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.6
This is an exciting climb. It is a consistent 5.6 with lots of good holds, and lots of good pro. The middle anchors are at exactly 100 feet. A doubled 60 meter rope dangles just above the deck.

Apr 20, 2010
wasatch-mtn-man  
  5.6
Fun to do both pitches although one 60 m rope will take you to the top (barely). We rappelled off the top in lieu of walking off. We used two ropes but I have rapped off of this route using one rope to the belay station and then down.

There is an old, bent piton at the top but one can easily run a long sling around a crack for the anchor.

The belay station in the middle of the route has two good bolts at a nice ledge and easily accommodated our party of three.

From the 'hanging' belay we angled to climber's right to the alcove where the tree is then traversed left along an easy ramp. As I was the last to follow and the route had been cleaned, I simply went straight up the face which could be led but with more sketchy pro. Some of the flakes on this upper face had loose blocks on them.

Fun, easy route. Good route for intro to multi-pitch climbing. Aug 23, 2009