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Routes in Turkey Rock

Nose of Turkey Rock, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pulp Friction T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Right Wing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Run, Forest, Run T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Smoked Turkey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 280 ft, 2 pitches
FA: H. Carter, R. Gardner
Page Views: 393 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tobin Sanson on Jun 18, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

P1. The route starts at a big boulder, right off the trail. Scramble up the boulder and climb straight up to the first pin (15' off the ground). It is unprotected to this point. there is another pin three feet above the first. Climb up the white colored rock over a bulge. After the bulge, about 30', you will come to a two bolt anchor on a sloping ledge. Traverse right from here about 40' to fixed anchor.

P2. Climb up 200' placing gear as needed. You pass a two bolt anchor at 130'. Continue climbing the rest of the way. You can walk off or you can scramble down to the left to a chain anchor.

Two single rope rappels to the bottom of Smoked Turkey (highly recommended if you can lead 5.10).

Location

It is about 15 minutes above the boulderfield parking lot.

Protection

Light rack, pins, fixed and natural anchors.

Photos

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GilaShot
Western Antarctic, New Engl…
GilaShot   Western Antarctic, New Engl…
Unprotected start leads to some fun ledges. Traversing right 40' at the end of the first pitch brings you to two pins to belay from. I backed them up with a green X4. From there, a 60m rope will get you to the top. An old piton on the second pitch is super loose! Jul 13, 2016
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
P2 is 5.4 at most, not 5.6 as in the guidebook. Still is fun! Aug 9, 2009