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Routes in The Turret

5.10c/d Hands/Fist Crack, East side T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
5.8 Chimney - "Choss Garden" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Another SPlatte Special T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: George Allen and Ann Liebolt, 1980
Page Views: 85 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jeremy Hakes on Jun 16, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This crack is possibly larger than hands/fist, more like an offwidth (see below). Please supply any more information you might have.

Per ??: I remember George and Ann telling me that this thing was pretty wide - more like offwidth than fist at the crux. I think they may have carried a couple of tubes on the FA.

Per George Bracksieck: To the right of the pictured wide crack, just right of the edge of this pic, is an overhanging splitter that diagonals up and right, continuing around the rounded buttress to the rim. On Sept 12. 1981, Steve Sarns led the overhanging splitter, using clean aid. I followed mostly free. Our splitter began fistish and narrowed before turning the corner, but no where on our climb was any wide gear necessary. I don't know which crack George and Anne climbed. If they used tubes, I suspect they did the crack in this photo and not the one Steve and I did.

Location

This is on the SW side of the spire.

Please supply any further information if you know.

Protection

Rumor has it (see below) that large gear and/or Big Bros would be very helpful.

Please supply any further info if you know.

Possibly a couple of tubes on the FA.

Photos

Jeremy Hakes
Golden, Colorado
Jeremy Hakes   Golden, Colorado
Pete - Awesome. Thanks for the info. I have updated the route. Jun 18, 2008