5.11b,
Trad, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 13
votes
FA: Steve Gardiner, Frank Sanders, Mark Brackin 6/1/80 FFA: Jay Smith, Jo Bentley 8/19/88
Wyoming
> Devils Tower
> W Face
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
If you're getting bored with all of the immaculate 5.11 finger cracks on the Tower, give this little anomaly a try. Although its diminutive stature seems inviting from the base, it provides full value! It's definitely not the locker finger crack it looks like, but rather is flared and shallow. Dial in your footwork and get creative, cause this thing will have you cranking all sorts of strange sequences on insecure flared jams and lots of techy feet. Stays on you to the anchors.
Location
The first crack right of Mr. Clean. Anchors can be seen a short ways up to the right of the crack.
Protection
Finger size stuff up through .75 camalots or maybe #1 camalot. This doesn't protect quite as readily as most Tower cracks.