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Routes in The Turret

5.10c/d Hands/Fist Crack, East side T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
5.8 Chimney - "Choss Garden" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Another SPlatte Special T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 584 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jeremy Hakes on Jun 16, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is at 30 degrees North by compass bearing. The route is on the northeast corner of the rock, a low angle chimney. Pitch 1 (5.8) is 160’. Climb mossy cracks (reasonable protection) for 60’ and then enter the main chimney. A cam (#3 Camalot) in questionable rock protects 15 feet of crux chimneying, up to a chockstone and good protection. Pass a second, larger chockstone on the left and scramble 30 feet up a very low angle chimney to a belay. Unrope and walk back (south) through a corridor, turn left and tunnel 30’ to the eastern edge of the rock. Turn right and scramble (Class 4) up to a plateau where you can see the north and south summit blocks, and belay (long sling around a big knob). For the final pitch (5.6 X, 60’ long), climb down to the notch, step across and mantle onto a large, loose flake. Carefully climb up over more loose flakes to the summit area.

Location

This route starts off as a crack climb, then transitions to a reclining chimney about 75' up. This inset area is on the highest shoulder of the rock.

Protection

#1-#4 cams are best. The rock is of very poor quality - nuts and hexes will likely blow out in several placements. Carefully consider placements in the choss. We brought doubles from #1-#4 cams and several runners. The summit itself has an ANCIENT fixed pin (which unfortnately I failed to get a picture of). Not sure what it was used for. We installed 2 new bolts, slings, and a rap ring on the east face at a bearing of about 45 degrees north. A very exposed 4th class descending traverse is required to reach the anchor. Ropes were pulled easily from our new anchor. I'd recommend lowering/belaying from the summit area (good cracks on the summit) to the anchor. The rappel is 160' long.

NOTE: If that hanging flake slides off, which it will sooner or later, I don't know how you'd get up there. As it is, the last 70' pitch is a 5.6 free solo on the rotten flakes, scallops, and a few crystals.

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