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Routes in Upper Ice Caves (Feline area)

Deutsches Blut S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirty Looks S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dirty White Boy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Irish Blood S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ledged Assault S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Lovin' You is a Dirty Job S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Rachel's Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Chad Brown
Page Views: 1,683 total, 15/month
Shared By: Aeon Aki on Jun 16, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route climbs the line just left of Feline. Sustained climbing leads to a tricky crux.

Does anyone know the FA info? I will update as soon as I find out.

Protection

About 14 quickdraws.

Photos

Matt M Jones
Colorado Springs, CO
Matt M Jones   Colorado Springs, CO
I agree, I think the crux is above the undercling section. I found it difficult to clip the chain draw. Aug 31, 2016
John Byrnes
Fort Collins, CO
John Byrnes   Fort Collins, CO  
I had three people (plus above comment) tell me the undercling section was the crux. It's not anymore.

Unless I'm just brain-dead, a hold has broken off above the underclings creating a new harder crux. There's a scar with chalk around it, which I'm told was an undercling (right where you'd want it), but it's gone. I broke off the remaining potato-chip edge trying to use it.

I found an insecure tips-gaston which I'm calling 12a, but I'm curious what others think.

Oh, yes! It's a great line. Sep 16, 2015
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
  5.11d
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
  5.11d
I only TR'd this route after a day of climbing, but, man, what a line! This looks a little chossy from the ground, but the climbing is stellar, and it is not yet polished from the masses. The movement through the 25 feet of crux climbing is absolutely classic, like tricky Eldo climbing... but better! This seemed all of .11d, probably harder in some areas. Oct 21, 2014
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
There are 9 bolts on this climb, including the perma chain draw at the crux and one draw that is currently in place. The anchor is Metolius rap hangers, so bring draws for the anchor. Jul 11, 2012
Hale
Boston
 
Hale   Boston
 
As good as Feline and less polished with a fun blocky, undercling crux. The runout is nothing to worry about. May 29, 2012
Chad Brown  
 
Aeon Aki,

Thanks for posting this route on Mountainproject. I was the one who bolted the route. Responding to the crazy bolt spacing from a comment below; unfortunately I had to bolt the route in the middle of the night due to the bolting ban at the time. The bolts are bomber 4' bolts but I had a hard time climbing this thing in the dark with a head lamp. I sent it the next day getting the FA and I agree the bolts are not in the ideal spots, but safe none the less. Hope everyone enjoys the route glad its getting attention. The new guide book probably has helped.

Chad Brown Mar 16, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
This is a worthy addition. Beware the start is a bit chossy, and for some reason there's a long runout around the 4th or 5th bolt. Jun 30, 2008
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
14 huh? Jun 23, 2008