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Routes in (08) The Far Side I

Boogadaboogadaboogada! T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curious George S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Giant Squid S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Janes Addiction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Midnight Rider S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rambling Man S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Serpentine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stiff Upper Lip S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Eric Grompper & Mark Thomas
Page Views: 258 total, 2/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jun 15, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Start slightly right of the bolt line on easy ground to a nice ledge. Pull a difficult mantle to reach the third bolt, being careful of the ledge, decking potential here. From here things get hard without using the left crack. Make a series of thin moves to get to and pass the 5th bolt and reach the anchors.

Location

Between "Surfer Boy and the Shrimp" and an unknown wide crack.

Protection

5 Bolts to chain anchors

Photos

Bernard loved thin cranks and once told me he found them easy.
I think a number of his ratings reflect that preference. Sep 7, 2009
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
While the Bernard Moret guide calls this an easy tick at 11c, I found the top of this line to be considerably harder than 11c, more like 12b. Was I missing something or have some holds broken off? Much much easier if the left hand crack is used, somewhat contrived as it is easily within reach, but that is Palomas climbing. Jun 15, 2008