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Routes in Spray Wall

Anger Management V11 8A
Becoming, The V10 7C+
Dad Speaks Parley S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dan Speaks Darrly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dark Arts, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Kerosene Milkshake V6 7A R
Mungamatic (submitted as Name Unknown) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Only Entertainment S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Outre Salvo S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Pagan Wisdom S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Randy Speaks Farsi S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rapture S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spew S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spray S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Spray Direct S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Surefire S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Ed Schmitt and Ben Schmitt
Page Views: 2,288 total, 20/month
Shared By: Ben Schmitt on Jun 15, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

Bolted and sent on Father's Day, this new route is a brilliant moderate addition to the Spray Wall. The route follows the right-facing dihedral left of Randy Speaks Farsi, and then busts out underclings, crimps, and the final juggy roof via three cruxes. It is recommended to stick clip the first bolt, as the slab crux right off the ground is tenuous, and there was no good place to put the bolt where it would not be in the way. Destined to be a classic....

Location

On the right side of the Spray Wall amphitheatre, this is the 3rd route to the left of the edge of the wall. It follows the right-facing dihedral in the middle of the wall up increasinly overhanging climbing to a scoop, and then out the steep roof left of Randy Speaks Farsi.

Protection

Five bolts to a chain anchor. There are biners at the top for easy lowering, don't steal them.

Photos

TimFromMaine
Idyllwild, CA
TimFromMaine   Idyllwild, CA
Did this rig ever get its hanger back? May 30, 2014
Matt McIntosh
  5.10d
Matt McIntosh  
  5.10d
Ben, I'd love to contribute to the community, but I am only here on seasonal work and don't have a car. Sorry, brotha. Thanks for all your work in the Canyon, it's sick. Aug 1, 2013
Ben Schmitt  
 
Matt,

You can run to the Mountain Chalet, grab a stainless steel hanger ($3.50), go to the hardware store, and get a 3/8" 304 stainless nut and washer ($.30). Put the hanger on first, then the washer, then the nut, and tighten down until tight but not ungodly tight. Hopefully the threads are still intact. I usually pay for most of the hardware upgrades in the canyon out of my own pocket, so if you wanted to chip in, you would be helping the community out. I always carry a wrench with me to tighten bolts, especially on popular routes like this one. I'm glad you liked it! Jul 23, 2013
Matt McIntosh
  5.10d
Matt McIntosh  
  5.10d
The final bolt before the anchor spun off about a week ago. I'd love to see this route rebolted, it's phenomenal.
Jul 23, 2013
Step hen
Fort Collins, CO
Step hen   Fort Collins, CO
Thanks for replacing that hanger! I must have whipped on it a half dozen times the other day. Jul 21, 2011
reesel
gunnison
reesel   gunnison
Was climbing this on sunday (9/26) when the first hanger popped off after my friend fell at the top. Searched for nut but couldn't find it. Hanger at base of route. We had no time to run for a new nut and return to replace, (sorry!), but we had to get on the road. Sep 29, 2010
JasonT
 
JasonT  
 
Getting to the first bolt isn't the greatest climbing, but after that this really turns into a great climb. Nice job, guys. Apr 16, 2010