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Routes in Steins Pillar

NE Face (5.8 C2 or 5.11a) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Rocket Ride S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tammy Jo Memorial S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
West Face Route (5.10d or 5.6 A3) T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ???
Page Views: 2,732 total, 24/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jun 15, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

The first two pitches of this climb were really good. The rock was sound and the pro was bomber for the most part. We did this climb in two pitches and I would recommend doing so. The second pitch is all bolts and fixed gear except for some small stoppers so don't be afraid to use up the hardware on the dihedral if you combine one and two. The rope begins to get heavy as you reach the second set of chains but the belay stance is comfortable. The first belay would have been hanging and since we had three people we combined 1&2. There is another route that ascends the arete to the left and the anchors for it are just a few feet left. Our third hung out there as the last pitch was lead. The last pitch climbs the crack above the belay then zigs right and eventually back left but the drag is manageable with runners. Unfortunately there is a 15 ft. steep section of crappy rock about 60 feet up but the pro is good so we all pulled for all we were worth. If it did break the debris would miss your partners and the fall would be clean. The rest of the climbing is fun and the summit was well worth it.

Location

As you drop down the left side you will see a nice looking tight corner with an obvious crack. Easy climbing on slightly funky rock gets you to it. Descend the NE face from poorly placed chain anchors. Use two ropes. We did two long raps and one short one but you might be able to reach the ground in two.

Protection

Small stoppers up to finger size, doubles on cams to yellow camalot and one blue. Mostly new bolts and old pins, chain anchors at the first and second belay. You might add some finger size cams if you want to really sew up the dihedral.
suppechasper  
 
Descriptions indicate that no gear was needed for the 2nd pitch. We encountered chopped bolts on the 2nd pitch and needed gear for that pitch Dec 4, 2016
Bowie Pearson
Portland, OR
  5.10c/d
Bowie Pearson   Portland, OR
  5.10c/d
I thought the steep face climbing on the second pitch (if you break it down into 4 and don't link) was the hardest bit of the day. The first pitch is great fun with good gear. The 3rd/4th have some steep parts I found burly, but were also really fun and there were new bolts and gear when needed. We did this on a beautiful Sunday where the lines at Smith would have been out of control, and had Steins pillar and its great summit all to ourselves. Overall really enjoyable - DO IT! May 2, 2016
CritConrad
Bend, OR
  5.11-
CritConrad   Bend, OR
  5.11-
Pitch 1 starts off not super great but the dihedral above is amazing. Sustained, and good stone with tons of gear if you have it. I sewed that thing up! we linked it with pitch 2 and even with lots of runners I was feeling the rope. Pitch three started off amazingly fun and then after the ramp quickly turned to garbage and leaves you at possibly the worst belay I've ever spent time at! pitch 4 starts off with some big exposure, loose flakes, and questionable gear. Once the bolt is clipped the rock turns bomber and it is very mellow to the cool summit! Mar 23, 2016
Chris Winter
Portland, OR
 
Chris Winter   Portland, OR
 
This is a great line with some excellent, varied climbing culminating in an isolated and aesthetic summit - what more could you want? If in Utah, Stein's would be a heavily traveled classic tower. Instead, it sits in obscurity in the Ochocos of Central Oregon. Oct 21, 2013
The first pitch dihedral is classic and the third pitch is super fun. Highly recommended! Bring some small stoppers for the second pitch. May 31, 2012
derek craig
  5.10+
derek craig  
  5.10+
Despite the somewhat questionable rock on the third pitch it is actually really good! I really enjoyed the third pitch and I would give this route four stars at least--much better than doinking around on the aid pitch on the other side... Sep 19, 2011