Avg: 2.7 from 14 votes
Routes in The Alligator Lounge
|Altered State T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Evil Genius T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Feel the Void T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Good and Plenty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Heels over Head T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Lator Gator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Let's Do It Again, Daddy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Lounge Lizard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Optical Illusion T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Slot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Spank Me T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Urge Overkill T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Wave Goodbye S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Wild Thing S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||K. Mclaughlin, S. Cheyney|
|Page Views:||1,324 total, 11/month|
|Shared By:||david goldstein on Jun 14, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Road & nearby private property Details
Please do your best to maintain good relationships with the people who own the land in this area. Do not drive your vehicle past the "private property" sign. Do not go up to the house to ask for directions to the crag. Do not ride your bike down the road. Please move immediately to the side of the road if any landowners are approaching in their vehicles.
DescriptionI enjoyed this surprisingly steep route as much as anything else I've done at TR, though the start is marred by some crumbly rock. Seemed tough for the grade e.g. harder than Bury the Bone. Goes into the shade earlier than most of the other routes on the east side of the Alligator Lounge.
P1. (10+, 60') The first 3m is the crux. A shallow 3/4" piece such as a red Alien or an orange TCU provides the only pro that would keep you off the deck. After the crux, move up on easier though not perfectly protected ground to a roof, pull this then blast up a thin hand crack to a ledge and a belay.
P2. (10, 60') Some gator skin face climbing leads to a crack which starts thin but widens wider than fists at the end. The angle eases off at the end so I didn't feel like I needed anything bigger than a blue Camalot. After topping out of the crack you can go left or right to anchors; neither choice is ideal. We went up and right to the top of the pinnacle where we established a gear belay from which we had to do a mini pitch to get down to the anchors.
We had a 70m rope each strand of which had about 3m remaining after rapping to the ground. I'm not sure if a 60m rope would make it to the ground and the rock overhangs enough that it would be a pain if it didn't.