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Routes in The Alligator Lounge

Altered State T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Evil Genius T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feel the Void T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Good and Plenty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Heels over Head T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Lator Gator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Let's Do It Again, Daddy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lounge Lizard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optical Illusion T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spank Me T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Urge Overkill T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wave Goodbye S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Wild Thing S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: K. Mclaughlin, S. Cheyney
Page Views: 1,324 total, 11/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jun 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Road & nearby private property Details

Description

I enjoyed this surprisingly steep route as much as anything else I've done at TR, though the start is marred by some crumbly rock. Seemed tough for the grade e.g. harder than Bury the Bone. Goes into the shade earlier than most of the other routes on the east side of the Alligator Lounge.

P1. (10+, 60') The first 3m is the crux. A shallow 3/4" piece such as a red Alien or an orange TCU provides the only pro that would keep you off the deck. After the crux, move up on easier though not perfectly protected ground to a roof, pull this then blast up a thin hand crack to a ledge and a belay.

P2. (10, 60') Some gator skin face climbing leads to a crack which starts thin but widens wider than fists at the end. The angle eases off at the end so I didn't feel like I needed anything bigger than a blue Camalot. After topping out of the crack you can go left or right to anchors; neither choice is ideal. We went up and right to the top of the pinnacle where we established a gear belay from which we had to do a mini pitch to get down to the anchors.

We had a 70m rope each strand of which had about 3m remaining after rapping to the ground. I'm not sure if a 60m rope would make it to the ground and the rock overhangs enough that it would be a pain if it didn't.

Location

Roughly 20m right of Daddy there is a buttress with a crack between two bolted lines. Evil Genius is the crack line.

Protection

Stoppers and cams to blue Camalot with doubles in hand sizes.
SammyJ
Colorado springs
 
SammyJ   Colorado springs
 
Don't let the crumbly start dissuade you from getting on this thing. The crack is pretty classic, and the bolts are actually set in some good stone and make the kitty litter start very reasonable. Apr 10, 2017
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
The start is tough for the grade especially for the vertically challenged. Apr 8, 2017
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10+
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10+
Great route marred only by a short section of cruddy rock at the very start. The opening moves on the second pitch are exhilirating! At the very top, we ended up traversing 15' right with a couple of directionals up high, to the anchors on Wild Thing. The rope drag doing this was horrendous. May 17, 2011
Joshh
Denver, CO
Joshh   Denver, CO
Great Route...thanks for the bolts at the start! May 27, 2010
Kevin McLaughlin
Colorado Springs
Kevin McLaughlin   Colorado Springs
F.A. K. Mclaughlin, S. Cheyney. Nov 9, 2008