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Routes in First Crag

Dead End TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fern Gully S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fern Hueco TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fertile T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Free Fruit T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
He Broke It S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Peril S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
She Broke It S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steril S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tombstone TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trent Stone S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 447 total · 4/month
Shared By: Chuck on Jun 14, 2008
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

Start just right of the 10' tombstone flake. It is the left of the only 2 bolted routes on this wall. The Crux is the first 15'and it appears that the holds have broken off leaving small crimps. Stick clipping the first bolt is a wise choice. Once you reach the ledge the climb is strait forward.

Protection

Four fixed bolts and two for the anchor. If you are top roping, extend your anchor to reduce friction on your rope.

Photos

Tridogdude
5.10+ R
Tridogdude  
5.10+ R
First lead ascent and bolted by Jon Stahl and Stan Justice.
The route was ready to get bolted when Laura Ierien pulled off a flake about 15 feet off the deck.
Stahl came back in the next week and bolted the route and led it. The first bolt is located 15' off the deck at the crux. One can choose to stick clip since the landing could be very serious without mats or spotter.
Stahl put the first bolt above crux to add a more serious lead. Feb 14, 2010
The upper half of this route is really fun, but unfortunately suffers from a very forced start on crappy holds. One could climb right or left or the line by just a few feet. And as far as the comment above about "placing to high bolt to make it a more serious lead"... what a bunch of crap. Stick clip the damn bolt, this is sport climbing. A top-down, rap bolted route with a purposely intended runout? Get real, that isn't "serious", that's called contrived boldness. Rant over.

A better line would be to start from the top of the tombstone flake and then traverse a few feet right into the line, following the natural features. May 27, 2013
thomas ellis   abq
I added a bolt to the bottom of this making it a safer more natural feeling lead. Coming in from the right side of bolt line is a nice v4 boulder start. Mar 12, 2014

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