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Joe's Garage

5.11a, Sport, 165 ft (50 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.1 from 13 votes
FA: Tony Faucet & Rick Watson - 1997
International > N America > Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > Central Scrutinizer

Description

P1: 5.9
P2: 5.11a

Same start as Canadian Route. Climb to the first bolt then head up and left (but not as far left as the Canadian Route) to a small roof. On pitch 2 pull the roof and trend left. Anchors end about 3 meters above the anchors for Gringo Disco. This route is often climbed as one 50m pitch.

Variation on the start of pitch 2: you can follow bolts out left instead of pulling the roof (this is called “John’s Got A Sausage”).

Protection

Bolts with anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The second pitch is bolted with these. There are two (rusted) modern bolts on the route but not in the crux.
[Hide Photo] The second pitch is bolted with these. There are two (rusted) modern bolts on the route but not in the crux.
Jordan Otto on the 1st pitch of Joes Garage on the left. With anoth climber above and to the right on Gringo Disco.
[Hide Photo] Jordan Otto on the 1st pitch of Joes Garage on the left. With anoth climber above and to the right on Gringo Disco.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Genereux
Calgary, AB
  5.11b PG13
[Hide Comment] Did this route as one long pitch, the hardest climbing is at the top as you wonder around the spaciously place corroded bolts Trying to figure the path..No white stuff to help. It’s as good as gringo disco and central Scrutinizer bit more serious at the same grade. Did all three same afternoon.with some rebooting would be a fantastic route. Shares the anchor with the Canadian route to the left. Could certainty use a separate anchor more in line with the top of the climb.
On the second pitch there are two version the right is described above. The left goes up a rib left of the midpoint belay and the two starts merge at the third bolt. The right is burly on good holds the left is more technical face with good holds. Feb 15, 2020
Kevin Heinrich
AMGA Rock Guide
[Hide Comment] Really fun climbing but desperately in need of a rebolt. Almost all of the second pitch is bolted with presumably homemade old rusted hangers. The first pitch is also not bolted nicely for a 5.9 climber. This route could also use its own anchor. Jan 19, 2023