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Routes in Great Wall

Modelo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Star Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,269 total, 11/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 14, 2008
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Bingham describes this as "one of the best crack pitches in the park". With a description like that, I had to give it a try. It is worth the effort, if you are in the area.

This climb liebacks an incredible dihedral with multiple stepped roofs. The route is very pumpy for the grade and will eat .5 and .75 camalots.

The anchor situation is a little funky on this climb. There is a 2 bolt anchor in the middle of the slab, but no clear way to reach it. You could continue to the top of the formation, but the slabs above are loose and runout. The best option is to step to the left and rap off a chicken head. Bring some extra webbing just in case.

Location

This right facing corner is found on the lower tier of the Great wall and just left of a large triangular roof.

Protection

Gear to #3 camalot, w/ extras in the .5 to .75 range.

Photos

Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
I also thought the beginning moves were the crux. Don't think the climb is more than 60ft. Cool liebacking and a welcomed rest before the traverse to the anchors. Kind of heady moving across the face. Concentrate on the footholds is definitely key. Oct 28, 2015
Norm Larson
Wilson, Wy.
Norm Larson   Wilson, Wy.
I can't believe I never knew of this route till the other day. What a great 9+/10a crack. Definitely one of the best cracks at the city. As much as I like thin slice or bloodyfingers they are really mostly face routes with cracks. Not this one. The crux for me was the first few moves getting in to the crack. Funky anchor off right on the slab but it's easy to get to really once you see it. Wish this crack was longer but that's not unusual at the city to wish for more. Go do it you won't be disappointed.
Oct 25, 2013
JF1
Las Vegas
  5.9+
JF1   Las Vegas
  5.9+
Great Climb. More like a 5.9 though. Missed the anchors (as did everyone else who climbed the route?) and ran it out to the top. Jun 12, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.10a
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.10a
awesome climb! we found this gem exploring the inner city the other day, and had no idea of the rating. I climbed to the top of the formation going over the roof directly above the corner via a chickenhead/tree maneuver. We rapped back down off another tree to see the chain anchor on the face. DOH!

We also bootied a brand new red metolius off this pitch. WOOHOO! May 13, 2011
Brendan N
Salt Lake City, Utah
Brendan N   Salt Lake City, Utah
A fantastic line, one of the best in the City

we used nothing bigger than a #1 (red) Camalot
small cams are needed to protect the lower and upper third
double .5 and .75 camalots are nice

a bit easy for the grade

The trick to getting to the chains is to look for the foot edges that will take you out there and not to focus on handholds. This is the mental crux of the route, but well worth doing.

continue hiking up and do "Beef Jello" while you are in the area Sep 9, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10a
Great line! I do recall going right on the slabby moves to the bolted anchor out there. I don't remember it being too difficult but this was a couple years ago now. Aug 2, 2008