Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Reid Dowdle, 1983
Page Views: 1,707 total · 13/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 14, 2008
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

22 Opinions

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This climb packs a punch for only being 40ft long. Start up the right facing corner and traverse under the roof for 15ft. This climb is well protected and worth the effort. A mid size hex is useful at the lip, in case your second comes off.

Make a some what scary rap from a small tree. Will it hold? It did for us...


This roof is located in an alcove on the east side of Anteater. The easiest approach is between Morning Glory and Anteater.


Gear to #2 camalot, doubles in the .5-1.5" range. Bolted anchor.


David D.
David D.  
You can backup the tree with a #3 camalot while belaying the second up... but eventually, you gotta rap off that little dead tree... Way scary... May 4, 2010
There are now bolts above the dead tree. Jun 6, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Could have been a classic were it a full pitch. Still fun though, and very 'blue collar'. Jun 20, 2016
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
Short, but a ton of fun and well worth doing. I was able to keep it pretty G-rated with a standard rack with a bit of leapfrogging - used .75, 1, 2, my largest Nut, and a #3 after pulling the corner and making a couple of moves.

But if you have extra gear sitting around, it will be even easier and even more G-rated with something like a couple .75s, a #1, and three #2s.

2-Bolt anchor with chains as of September 2017. Sep 6, 2017