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Routes in Anteater - East

Circus Direct T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Circus Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flyboy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Net T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vulture Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Reid Dowdle, 1983
Page Views: 1,597 total, 14/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 14, 2008
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

This climb packs a punch for only being 40ft long. Start up the right facing corner and traverse under the roof for 15ft. This climb is well protected and worth the effort. A mid size hex is useful at the lip, in case your second comes off.

Make a some what scary rap from a small tree. Will it hold? It did for us...

Location

This roof is located in an alcove on the east side of Anteater. The easiest approach is between Morning Glory and Anteater.

Protection

Gear to #2 camalot, doubles in the .5-1.5" range. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Short, but a ton of fun and well worth doing. I was able to keep it pretty G-rated with a standard rack with a bit of leapfrogging - used .75, 1, 2, my largest Nut, and a #3 after pulling the corner and making a couple of moves.

But if you have extra gear sitting around, it will be even easier and even more G-rated with something like a couple .75s, a #1, and three #2s.

2-Bolt anchor with chains as of September 2017. Sep 6, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Could have been a classic were it a full pitch. Still fun though, and very 'blue collar'. Jun 20, 2016
There are now bolts above the dead tree. Jun 6, 2010
David D.
  5.10b
David D.  
  5.10b
You can backup the tree with a #3 camalot while belaying the second up... but eventually, you gotta rap off that little dead tree... Way scary... May 4, 2010