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Routes in Obscure Buffalo Creek Rocks

A Side Crack V0- 4-
B Side Crack V1- 5-
Buffalo Creek Spire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buffalo Creek Spire South Face A0
Classic Arete V3-4 6A+
Fear of Slabs V0- 4-
One Last Fix T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shotgun Express T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smoke a Fatty T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Unknown V-easy 3
deGaulle's Nose aid route T C1+
deGaulle's Nose free route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 728 total, 6/month
Shared By: Christopher Jones on Jun 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the same crack as the A Side problem but the opposite side. This problem is slightly overhanging and a bit harder than A Side Crack. If somebody has a different name for this route, please let me know.

Protection

Pad.

Photos

Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
 
Christopher Jones   Denver, Colorado
 
I've climbed that problem on the right too, pretty fun ow practice. The 25-30 ft. one you describe sounds like another one that I've done but with a rope. I don't mean to down grade it but it didn't feel like 5.10 to us. I'm sure it felt that hard not being roped up and getting pretty far off the ground. Jul 10, 2008
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
On the right side of the photo you can see another crack, I thought it was fun practice for off widths and chimmneying (if you stay out of the depths that is).

Fist jams, heel toe, chicken wings, inverted arm bars, thigh caming and chimney variations can all be used. More then one way to skin the cat so to speak.

Also there is a few other crack problems around. One is probably 5.6-5.7+? which liebacks a flake. Another is a real highball we did with 3 pads at about 5.10? Goes up a dihiedral with another crack/seam on the right and a large chockstone atop that must be past. We didn't want to go strait up over the chock stone so we transfered to the right crack near the roof/chockstone and passed it lightly on the right. Probably 25-30 ft.

There is more then that too if you have the means to get down off a giant block (a rope and someone to counter weight it), and a bunch of pads (maybe 5+). Jun 21, 2008