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Routes in North Noddle Head (First Noddle Head)

Beau Knows T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sounds of a Desperate Man T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Maurice and Doug Reed, 1982
Page Views: 59 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jeremy Hakes on Jun 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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I am unsure of the crux and positives/negatives of this route. I am putting it into the database to help solicit info on the route and the spire itself.

We made 2 attempts on this spire, and I believe we reached the top of this route by another means, but I didn't see any anchors or fixed gear.


West face of the southern area of the main massif. The crack splits this face. The route finishes on the summit.


Per Hubbel, bring extra 3" cams.

Bolted rap anchor. 1 60m rope for 2 raps down south side to a lower anchor, or 1 full length rap with two ropes.