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Routes in Location Unknown Routes

Access Climb T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Blank Face TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bowline T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Decapitator T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Difficult Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Overhang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Face Off TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
First Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knob Off TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Next To Nothing 12.a TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Nosey T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Over and Up TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Papoose T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pretzel TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretzel Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Purgatorio V5 6C PG13
Quiver T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Return Engagement TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Riverview Ridge T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Second Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sentinel Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sentinel East Face T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sentinel North Face TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Third Crack TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twin Cracks TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up and Off TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wrap-Around Route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,143 total, 10/month
Shared By: metrozen on Jun 12, 2008
Admins: Dave Hug

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Long crack is good for cams, but it's still manky limestone. Don't get too excited about the pro.

Location

It's the second crack. Right of Blank Face

Protection

Toprope trees.

Photos

Dave Goodell  
 
I agree that the main route description photo is incorrect (it shows First Crack). My comments below refer to Second Crack, which is to the left about 10-15 feet from the route pictured in the main photo. The other submitted photos look right to me.

I top roped it on Sunday and found it an enjoyable easy route. This would probably be a good route for new climbers. I didn't lead it, but IIRC the pro would have been mainly in the large crack on your right (mostly #3 Camalot and bigger, maybe some large hexes endwise?).

There are three bolts for anchoring at the top to the right of the crack, two side-by-side and one a few feet lower. Aug 16, 2011
This route is DEFINITELY First Crack. It appears in a guide book entitled "Guide to the Mississippi Palisades" by Demetri Kolokotronis published in 1965 and also in "River Rock" by Bill Collett and myself published in 1983 and revised in 1991.
The First Crack through Fourth Crack routes are numbered in sequence from RIGHT TO LEFT. Fourth Crack is not a very distinct crack and is also known as Double Overhang. May 13, 2010
A.J. W
Stillwater, OK
  5.5
A.J. W   Stillwater, OK
  5.5
The description and picture is for for an undocumented route i named third crack unless someone knows a different name. First crack is actually left of nosey and second crack is to the right of nosey. Mar 23, 2010
The description and the picture shown are both of the route called First Crack. Sep 26, 2009
Marty Combs
Boulder, CO
Marty Combs   Boulder, CO
Definitely one of the better leads at the palisades. It's too bad the finger crack doesn't last longer. Sep 27, 2008