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Routes in Location Unknown Routes

Access Climb T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Blank Face TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bowline T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Decapitator T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Difficult Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Overhang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Face Off TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
First Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knob Off TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Next To Nothing 12.a TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Nosey T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Over and Up TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Papoose T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pretzel TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretzel Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Purgatorio V5 6C PG13
Quiver T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Return Engagement TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Riverview Ridge T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Second Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sentinel Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sentinel East Face T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sentinel North Face TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Third Crack TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twin Cracks TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up and Off TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wrap-Around Route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,999 total, 17/month
Shared By: metrozen on Jun 12, 2008
Admins: Dave Hug

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Crack and dihedral system to the right of Nosey.

Location

First crack is past Nosey - at the east end of the cove.

Protection

Toprope or scant pro. Anchors same as Nosey and Pretzel, maybe use a directional here.

Photos

Dave Goodell
  5.7
Dave Goodell  
  5.7
Ditto Gary's comments. The route description seems wrong, but the photo looks right to me. There's another photo of First Crack listed incorrectly as here.

I thought this was a really fun trad lead. The upper two thirds of the climb takes stoppers really well, so you don't need a big rack to lead this one.

There are only three downsides that I see to the route. One is that there is a lot of small loose rock and dirt to knock down on your belayer if you're not careful. Another is that, like most all routes here, it's rather short. The last is that you can't realistically get any protection in until your feet are maybe 10 feet off the ground. There's a good spot for a mid-size cam (#.75 C4 maybe?) lower, but you'd have to extend the piece enough to get the rope around the bulge higher up that it wouldn't offer any real protection against decking. Instead just climb carefully until you can get a #3 C4 in above a block trapped in the crack maybe 15 feet off the ground. Just remind yourself that the holds are all pretty good and the climbing is easy.

If you really want to fuss more, you could probably put that smaller cam in not extended, clip it, put the #3 in higher, then down climb and back-clean the smaller cam to avoid the rope drag.

There are 3 bolts at the top for anchoring. Aug 17, 2011
The climb described between Nosey and Blank Wall is actually Second Crack aka Myrtle's Folly. About 5.5. Sep 26, 2009