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Routes in Sentinel

Blank Wall TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Broken Link T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Buck Naked T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Decapitator T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Demitri's Demise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Double Overhang aka Fourth Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Face Off TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
First Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graduation Day T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Knob Off TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey Swing T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mud Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Next To Nothing 12.a TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Nosey T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Over and Up TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pretzel TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretzel Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Primak's Peril T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Purgatorio V5 6C PG13
Quadrangle Traverse T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Return Engagement TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Riverview Ridge T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Second Crack aka Myrtle's Folly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sentinel Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sentinel East Face T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sentinel North Face TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Godzilla T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spinal Compression T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Third Crack TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turtles for Peace T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tuxedo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Up and Off TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West Face (Squaw Face Chimney) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,182 total · 17/month
Shared By: metrozen Geoffrion on Jun 12, 2008 with updates from Gary Taylor and 1 other
Admins: Dave Hug

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Crack and dihedral system to the right of Blank Wall.

Location

First crack is in the southeast corner of the Quadrangle.

Protection

Toprope or scant pro. Has dedicated anchor chain which can be reached by traversing right from the Nosey anchor ledge. There are a few bolts available to protect the traverse.

Photos

Dave Goodell
  5.7
Dave Goodell  
  5.7
Ditto Gary's comments. The route description seems wrong, but the photo looks right to me. There's another photo of First Crack listed incorrectly as here.

I thought this was a really fun trad lead. The upper two thirds of the climb takes stoppers really well, so you don't need a big rack to lead this one.

There are only three downsides that I see to the route. One is that there is a lot of small loose rock and dirt to knock down on your belayer if you're not careful. Another is that, like most all routes here, it's rather short. The last is that you can't realistically get any protection in until your feet are maybe 10 feet off the ground. There's a good spot for a mid-size cam (#.75 C4 maybe?) lower, but you'd have to extend the piece enough to get the rope around the bulge higher up that it wouldn't offer any real protection against decking. Instead just climb carefully until you can get a #3 C4 in above a block trapped in the crack maybe 15 feet off the ground. Just remind yourself that the holds are all pretty good and the climbing is easy.

If you really want to fuss more, you could probably put that smaller cam in not extended, clip it, put the #3 in higher, then down climb and back-clean the smaller cam to avoid the rope drag.

There are 3 bolts at the top for anchoring. Aug 17, 2011

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