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Routes in Half Dome

Autobahn T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blondike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Deuceldike T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Eye in the Sky T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Growing Up T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c A0
Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Snake Dike T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Southwest Face, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two Hoofers T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Andy Davis, Randy Baum, Doug Hemken
Page Views: 9,328 total, 81/month
Shared By: androo.daveass on Jun 11, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Climbs an amazing golden dike through the steepest section of the SW face of Halfdome. Pitches 2 and 3 are stellar and will make the long approach more than worth while. See posted topo for complete beta.
The cruxes are not bolted heavily enough to make this feel like a sport climb, but there are bolts where you need them.

Location

SW Face of Halfdome. 350' left of Snakedike, 50' right of the Salathe'.

Protection

Cams: one each .5-#3 Camalot
Nuts: one each medium to large
Quickdraws
60m or longer

Photos

bob jensen
  5.11a R
bob jensen  
  5.11a R
I haven't even climbed Snake Dike and I've done this and 2 Hoofers. This route was really fun to me. Odd runout at the end of pitch three, but great climbing! The frontside grabs felt like I was grabbing indy with the wave/transition at my back. Stance specific.........

I went up left and above the roof at the second crux and my buddy went right under it then up. I didn't see that.
This route is the better of the two you guys have done and they are both good. THis one, real good. I like dikes.....

Thanks for the work. Sounded like a trad blast. Mar 17, 2013
Any idea roughly how many parties have been up this route? Mostly neglected or have people been enjoying it?

Just interested in hearing what people (beyond the FA party) thought of it. Thanks! Jun 25, 2012
androo.daveass
Portland
 
androo.daveass   Portland
 
it sure isn't 'Growing Up', but for a lively debate about bolting brought on by 'Blond Ike':
mountainproject.com/v/north… Jun 15, 2008
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.10d R
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.10d R
A more detailed account of the FA can be found at the Hoofers website. Jun 13, 2008
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.10d R
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.10d R
Hey Karsten. I don't think Andy has climbed with you, has he? He may not realize you are teasing us (I can't really tell)? We spent a lot of time discussing "Growing Up" while we were hiking and in camp ... but once we got to climbing, we pretty much just did what felt right for us.

Yeah, on sight, ground up, hand drilled, from stances ... mostly. While ethical purists rage about ground up versus rap bolting, reality once again intervenes and proves itself more varied than our simple theories can accommodate. Which is one of the reasons I love getting out there.

We'll have to get together in Yosemite some time! I hope your new home is treating you as well as LV did! Jun 13, 2008
androo.daveass
Portland
 
androo.daveass   Portland
 
very funny...

it was all hand drilled on lead :)

-correction, we retro'ed the last bolt on pitch two after realizing we wouldn't want to run it out like it was more than once Jun 12, 2008
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
Nice job putting a route on a fantastic formation.. . but did you rap bolt it. Mwhahahahaha Jun 12, 2008
Congrats boys Jun 12, 2008