PRINT: Rock Climb Blond Ike, Yosemite National Park

Blond Ike

5.11a R, Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV,

Avg: 4 from 5 votes
FA: Andy Davis (androo.daveass), Randy Baum, Doug Hemken, 6/5/2008
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > D. Half Dome > 4. Southwest Face

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Description

Climbs an amazing golden dike through the steepest section of the SW face of Halfdome. Pitches 2 and 3 are stellar and will make the long approach more than worth while. See posted topo for complete beta.
The cruxes are not bolted heavily enough to make this feel like a sport climb, but there are bolts where you need them.

Location

SW Face of Halfdome. 350' left of Snakedike, 50' right of the Salathe'.

Protection

Cams: one each .5-#3 Camalot
Nuts: one each medium to large
Quickdraws
60m or longer

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Blond Ike, SW face of Halfdome

Topo for 'Blond Ike' (5.11b R), SW face of Halfdome

First pitches of Blond Ike as seen from the approach

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Travis Hibbard

Congrats boys Jun 12, 2008

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA

Nice job putting a route on a fantastic formation.. . but did you rap bolt it. Mwhahahahaha Jun 12, 2008

androo.daveass
Portland

5.11b

very funny...

it was all hand drilled on lead :)

-correction, we retro'ed the last bolt on pitch two after realizing we wouldn't want to run it out like it was more than once Jun 12, 2008

Doug Hemken
Delta, CO

5.10d R

Hey Karsten. I don't think Andy has climbed with you, has he? He may not realize you are teasing us (I can't really tell)? We spent a lot of time discussing "Growing Up" while we were hiking and in camp ... but once we got to climbing, we pretty much just did what felt right for us.

Yeah, on sight, ground up, hand drilled, from stances ... mostly. While ethical purists rage about ground up versus rap bolting, reality once again intervenes and proves itself more varied than our simple theories can accommodate. Which is one of the reasons I love getting out there.

We'll have to get together in Yosemite some time! I hope your new home is treating you as well as LV did! Jun 13, 2008

Doug Hemken
Delta, CO

5.10d R

A more detailed account of the FA can be found at the Hoofers hoofermountaineering.org/in… website. Jun 13, 2008

androo.daveass
Portland

5.11b

it sure isn't 'Growing Up', but for a lively debate about bolting brought on by 'Blond Ike':
mountainproject.com/v/north… Jun 15, 2008

Papa Tendon

Any idea roughly how many parties have been up this route? Mostly neglected or have people been enjoying it?

Just interested in hearing what people (beyond the FA party) thought of it. Thanks! Jun 25, 2012