Avg: 2.9 from 8 votes
Routes in Slick Rock
|Memorial Route (aka Caudill Queen King Route *original name*) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Regular Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Scenic Traction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Slippery Slope T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 1100 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Steve Bartlett, Fran Bagenal, July 2004|
|Page Views:||2,087 total, 18/month|
|Shared By:||Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Jun 11, 2008|
|Admins:||WAGbag, Mike Engle|
Description1. Climb up cracks, then trend up and right to a ledge system and an old two-bolt anchor beneath a long vertical crack (5.6, 180').
2. Clip an old pin in the crack above, then angle up and left into the middle of the steeper face. Climb straight up past two bolts, then run it out to a ledge. (5.9+R, 120').
3. Continue straight up on easier terrain, then step right to another pair of older bolts (5.7, 80').
4. Angle up and left into the middle of the face, then straight up, with occasional gear. Belay after 180', under a Cadillac size, two-foot thick, V-shaped flake. This is somewhat below, and 80 feet left of, a prominent left-facing dihedral with a large lone tree. You will be directly under a large dead tree at the top of the cliff. (5.8R, 180').
5. Layback up and left around the V-shaped flake, then gain a small ledge and left-facing dihedral/flake. Up this, then run it out up a nice rippled face to a small ledge and two-bolt anchor. (5.8R, 180').
6. Continue straight up on never-ending dike ripples, passing occasional flakes for gear, and belay at a fat right-facing flake, just before the angle eases, just as the rope runs out (5.8R, 205')
7. Continue to the top (190', 5.7)