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Routes in Slick Rock

Memorial Route (aka Caudill Queen King Route *original name*) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Regular Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scenic Traction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slippery Slope T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 1100 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Steve Bartlett, Fran Bagenal, July 2004
Page Views: 2,087 total, 18/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Jun 11, 2008
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

1. Climb up cracks, then trend up and right to a ledge system and an old two-bolt anchor beneath a long vertical crack (5.6, 180').
2. Clip an old pin in the crack above, then angle up and left into the middle of the steeper face. Climb straight up past two bolts, then run it out to a ledge. (5.9+R, 120').
3. Continue straight up on easier terrain, then step right to another pair of older bolts (5.7, 80').
4. Angle up and left into the middle of the face, then straight up, with occasional gear. Belay after 180', under a Cadillac size, two-foot thick, V-shaped flake. This is somewhat below, and 80 feet left of, a prominent left-facing dihedral with a large lone tree. You will be directly under a large dead tree at the top of the cliff. (5.8R, 180').
5. Layback up and left around the V-shaped flake, then gain a small ledge and left-facing dihedral/flake. Up this, then run it out up a nice rippled face to a small ledge and two-bolt anchor. (5.8R, 180').
6. Continue straight up on never-ending dike ripples, passing occasional flakes for gear, and belay at a fat right-facing flake, just before the angle eases, just as the rope runs out (5.8R, 205')
7. Continue to the top (190', 5.7)

Location

This climb takes the face about 150' left of Slippery Slope (the Regular Route) in seven pitches. About 80' left of Slippery Slope's start, scramble up a left-facing ramp/groove to a ledge (there is a large rotten bulging right-facing dihedral above and left of this ledge). On the face above are two major vertical crack systems, perhaps 100' apart. The route stays between them, then takes the clean face above, heading to a large dead tree at the summit. We climbed this onsight, with bolts placed on the lead. The rock is superb, and the climbing likewise. Route-finding is tricky in places, and several pitches are runout.

Protection

Gear: One each cams from tiny to 3.5", with doubles on 3/4"-2.5". A few wires. Double ropes recommended

Photos

Jeff Botimer
  5.9+ R
Jeff Botimer  
  5.9+ R
For anyone who may want to know for sure, this route can be done with a 60m rope. Jul 18, 2017
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.9+ R
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
  5.9+ R
First pitch is only .9 territory. It is runout but rock quality is excellent and many small quartz dikes provide good hands and feet. But it is really run out. On P5 I was able to place 3 pieces of gear in 180ft. But not difficult for those with slab experience. Aug 3, 2016
Great climb. Very fun. There are significant runouts on terrain that felt no harder then 5.7. IMO the route felt more like 5.7R with a decently protected 5.9 crux on the second pitch. Jun 15, 2016
R.Walters
  5.9 R
R.Walters  
  5.9 R
I would say it is definitely more run out than its neighbor 'slippery slope'. But the harder parts are certainly well-protected, which is probably what Cory alludes to in his comparison.

Just be prepared to find yourself in some "don't fall" territory on some easier climbing (think 5.5ish) on the upper pitches (which are super fun).

This is my favorite of the 4 routes described here. Great rock. Aug 1, 2012
Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
  5.9 PG13
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
  5.9 PG13
Fantastic climb! Don't let the "R" rating scare you off of it. Although there are some significant runouts, they are all on easy terrain. It's no more runout than the 5.10 slippery slope to the right. The crux on the second pitch is short and well protected by the two bolts. This route won't pose a problem for a competent 5.9 slab climber, and it's good enough that it shouldn't be missed. Aug 7, 2011