Most people say that NH lacks good crack climbing- this is the exception. A fine hand crack in an overhanging corner. Nice rock.
I'd like to add:
I don't know who these haters are that say NH doesn't have good crack climbs but they are sorely mistaken. That being said, Yes, this is probably the finest crack climb in NH.
Expect perfect jams for most hand sizes all the way with the exception of a couple of Wide openings where you can choose your solution. It's the consistently steep pitch that will wear you down more than any particularly hard moves. There are a number of decent footholds out to the sides of the crack which give you a weapon to fight against the pump as you battle this beautiful beast. -Lee
It is about in the middle of the crag. You can't miss it. See updated directions in the main crag heading to get there.
Cams to 3", a fixed rap/lower is in place.
Edit: Particularly perfect for #1 and #2 camalots. I'd say 3 of each of those and you would be all set though I placed a #4 on the lower pod and I found it convenient. -Lee
New York
-edit- See the updated directions in the main crag heading. Apr 13, 2009
Las Vegas NV
Of course this is pretty much a joke as there could be no such beast in the woods of N.H, right?
I wish Jimmy Dunn would step in with a recount of his story. May 25, 2010
Keswick, Cumbria
southern colo
New England
Saranac Lake, NY
I climbed it cleanly above the mid-climb anchor, but I certainly wouldn't say I lead the route free. Where does the climb really end? Seems to me the convenience anchor should be removed, and a proper fixed anchor should be installed where the climb truly ends.
Anyway, yea NH has tons of great crack lines, and this is the best I've been on. Sep 26, 2016
southern colo
i agree that the climb should end about 15' higher Sep 27, 2016
New England
southern colo
Saranac Lake, NY
The extra 15' is at a similar grade to the climbing below the current anchor, and it sounds like this was part of the original FA... Sep 27, 2016
southern colo
Bozeman/ The Lower Saddle
Norwich, VT
Cambridge, MA
Beware if you're hoping to hangdog this thing: watch your rope line. If you place any gear up in the corner and then whip above the roof, the rope can fall DEEP into the crack and will pull any gear you placed between the corner and the topout into the crack with it. Sep 14, 2020
Tamworth, NH
NOTE- Nick's directions have been added to the Main Page. R Hall, Admin. Oct 20, 2023
North Conway, NH