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Routes in Crack In The Woods

Closet Full of Klonopin S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Crack In The Woods T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pumping Station T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: james Dunn
Page Views: 4,493 total, 39/month
Shared By: john strand on Jun 10, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Most people say that NH lacks good crack climbing- this is the exception. A fine hand crack in an overhanging corner. Nice rock.

I'd like to add:
I don't know who these haters are that say NH doesn't have good crack climbs but they are sorely mistaken. That being said, Yes, this is probably the finest crack climb in NH.

Expect perfect jams for most hand sizes all the way with the exception of a couple of Wide openings where you can choose your solution. It's the consistently steep pitch that will wear you down more than any particularly hard moves. There are a number of decent footholds out to the sides of the crack which give you a weapon to fight against the pump as you battle this beautiful beast. -Lee

Location

It is about in the middle of the crag. You can't miss it. See updated directions in the main crag heading to get there.

Protection

Cams to 3", a fixed rap/lower is in place.

Edit: Particularly perfect for #1 and #2 camalots. I'd say 3 of each of those and you would be all set though I placed a #4 on the lower pod and I found it convenient. -Lee
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Positive it was the original finish. Jimmie always climbed to the top of climbs, in fact this caused a lot of confusion in places like indian Creek. There were no visible slings/anchors, He had topped out and walked off. Sep 28, 2016
Mark Bealor
Saranac Lake, NY
  5.10+
Mark Bealor   Saranac Lake, NY
  5.10+
Thank you for your reply John.

The extra 15' is at a similar grade to the climbing below the current anchor, and it sounds like this was part of the original FA... Sep 27, 2016
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Maybe not, but the tree is dead (see above) so seepage may be less. A couple of wet jams would be exciting though. Sep 27, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
This year is an extremely dry year. Do you think that extra 15' will be dry enough normally if it was cleaned and an anchor placed up there? Sep 27, 2016
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
It is a shit anchor, been there for years. the original clib ended at a tree 9still there?) which sucked a bit.


i agree that the climb should end about 15' higher Sep 27, 2016
Mark Bealor
Saranac Lake, NY
  5.10+
Mark Bealor   Saranac Lake, NY
  5.10+
Beautiful route, just stunning to look at, and even better to climb. I have a question, no disrespect intended, about the "convenience anchor" located part way up the route. Why is it there?? I attempted an onsite this past weekend and climbed it cleanly to a stance above this anchor. I clipped a pin, and placed a good .75 in a horizontal above. I went up and down several times trying to solve the move above the pin into a hand jam, and finally fell when I went for it. This was the hardest move I encountered on the climb. I finished to a ledge with another crack out a roof-the section above was really dirty, and I lowered off a fixed nut.
I climbed it cleanly above the mid-climb anchor, but I certainly wouldn't say I lead the route free. Where does the climb really end? Seems to me the convenience anchor should be removed, and a proper fixed anchor should be installed where the climb truly ends.
Anyway, yea NH has tons of great crack lines, and this is the best I've been on. Sep 26, 2016
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I saw a porcupine out below Owl's that was so big I thought it was a bear at first. It was as big as a good sized dog. I heard some loud rummaging on the back side of a boulder I was sleeping under so I took my headlamp and gingerly peeked around and it scared the crap out of me. It hid under a cave on the same boulder, which kept me awake for a while wondering if it was rabid and would attack me. I restoked the fire and kept a big stick next to me, haha. Scarier than a bear. Feb 9, 2016
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Classic guys !!!! We can only follow this with the "Bears of Humphreys" and the famous "Tumbling Porcupine" of Whitehorse. Jun 8, 2010
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Beaver ..I remember the night well .. About 2am Jimmy banging on my chalet door shouting bring the Jack Russells there is a beaver that just bit me in the backside! I thought yeah right and went back to sleep.. It did happen Jimmy sleeping in a drive way a few chalets down from mine when a beaver came and bit his arse . The Fish and Game department came and captured the Beaver for testing...I think just in case Jimmy had given the beaver rabies. May 25, 2010
trundlebum
Las Vegas NV
trundlebum   Las Vegas NV
Just be very wary of killer, attack beavers on the approach!

Of course this is pretty much a joke as there could be no such beast in the woods of N.H, right?

I wish Jimmy Dunn would step in with a recount of his story. May 25, 2010
David Aguasca!
New York
  5.10c
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.10c
Alternate approach, recommended for the spring (don't try crossing the river...it's an easy way to go for a swim): Park at the Albany Covered Bridge Parking. On the north end of the bridge is the beginning of the Nanamocomuck Ski Trail. Take that for approximately 20-30 minutes west, until you see trees on the right, marked with orange paint (don't know who did this.) Follow the markers up until you hit a shallow drainage, and follow this uphill until you hit the cliff band. The Crack in the Woods should be pretty obvious.
-edit- See the updated directions in the main crag heading. Apr 13, 2009