Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Bureau (Pitch 1)

5.11d, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 60 votes
FA: Steve Sangdahl & John Baldwin 1999
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Vampire Rock
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description

The Bureau climbs the line of bolts left of Wanker. It is identified by the chain link hanging from the 2nd bolt.

Climb up the pillar to the first bolt and work your way into a sloping rail. A wild dyno gets you off of the sloper, but the fun doesn't stop as more 5.11 climbing guards the anchors. Lower from the first set of anchors or continue on to harder climbing. More info coming....

Protection

Five bolts to a two-bolt anchor with rap rings

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bureau (P1).
[Hide Photo] Bureau (P1).
...and taking the ride after missing the jug.
[Hide Photo] ...and taking the ride after missing the jug.
Ian hucking for the jug off the awful sloper...
[Hide Photo] Ian hucking for the jug off the awful sloper...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kevin Neilson
Boulder
[Hide Comment] Great route. Shady until late afternoon, and somewhat protected by rain from a roof above. I don't really dyno at the crux; I do more of a lieback off the terrible right sloper. It's important to lean left for the sloper to be effective. I then let go of the left undercling and statically--but quickly--get the jug rail above. The route is not long but I find it pumpy. This and Wanker P1 are my favorite pitches at Vampire. I'm not sure whence the name derives. Aug 28, 2009
Christian Mason
Westminster CO
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Stop reading if you don't want beta:

The bad sloper at the first overlap can be avoided all together. Before pulling the overlap work the feet as far right as possible. Hands on the good undercling.

Move the left hand up to the high side pull (just right of the bolt) while leaning way right.

Work the feet up.

Right hand to slightly slopey crimp (just above and right of the sidepull the left hand is on).

From here, it's one move up to better holds.

Cell phone video of crux sequence:
youtube.com/watch?v=9JeCnVq… Sep 21, 2015
Mark Rolofson
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Doing the crux technical crux left of the 2nd bolt this climb feels like .12a. The first time I climbed this route was in November 1999, & I did it this way. I repeated the climb a year or two later but don't remember ever returning. I much preferred "Wanker".

I did just recently returned to this climb 17 years later & was pleased to find the sequence of moves just right of the 2nd bolt - more moves but easier & more pleasant. It is not over once you're through this crux. The redpoint crux is above the 4th bolt. The moves at at 2nd bolt are still the technical crux, but they're not way harder than the climbing past 3rd & 4th bolts. Sep 25, 2018
Dan Raymond
Longmont, CO
 
[Hide Comment] A dyno off that diagonal sloping rail does not seem like a 5.11 move. Climb the holds on the other side of the bolt line as Christian Mason describes to keep this 5.11. I preferred to use the sidepull as a right hand gaston. Sep 18, 2021