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Slim Shady

5.10, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 59 votes
FA: S. Mish
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Winslow- Hwy’s… > E Clear Creek > Winslow Wall > W Side

Description

Follow thinning crack in corner to a bulgy crux up high, then up and right to chains. The direct finish (up then right instead of right then up) is solid 10+ish.

Location

Downstream on West Wall in Shady Grove. Thin crack in corner just right of The Winsloner & Darkstar.

Protection

Lots of thin cams & nuts up to a #2 Camalot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

JB enjoying Slim Shady
[Hide Photo] JB enjoying Slim Shady
Thin crack in corner in the center of the pic.
[Hide Photo] Thin crack in corner in the center of the pic.
Darkstar is the wide crack on the left.<br>
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Slim Shady goes up the thin crack in the corner.
[Hide Photo] Darkstar is the wide crack on the left. Slim Shady goes up the thin crack in the corner.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

j mo
n az
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] this is the 10 to try if you dont lead 10 on gear.... it is at least a number grade easier than stick it, which is legit 10, IMHO. you can get a blue camalot in dark star before committing to the slim shady crack, and you can get a 00mastercam up high and right during the easy but run out traverse to the anchors, though it is probably moral support only. nice climb! Jul 18, 2011
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Classic! Sep 6, 2011
Chris Meyer
N Lake Tahoe NV, Scottsdale AZ
[Hide Comment] I Tr'd the route, nice, thin fingers and shallow placements. Sep 19, 2011
Wylie
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] It's nice to have some RP's for the last 10 feet. Sep 30, 2013