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The Girlfriend Route Direct

5.8+, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 80 votes
FA: Rodney Blakemore
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Winslow- Hwy’s… > E Clear Creek > Winslow Wall > E Side

Description

Climb a low angle arete to some steeper face moves.

Location

Starts just downstream of the rap gulley on the East wall in a small scoop.

Protection

8 bolts to chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Leading The Girlfriend Route
[Hide Photo] Leading The Girlfriend Route
Marilyn on the lead in Winslow Wall.
[Hide Photo] Marilyn on the lead in Winslow Wall.
Benny Spencer negotiates Standin on a Corner (left) while his 8-year-old son scrambles up The Girlfriend Route Direct to the right
[Hide Photo] Benny Spencer negotiates Standin on a Corner (left) while his 8-year-old son scrambles up The Girlfriend Route Direct to the right
The Girlfriend Route from the rap station.
[Hide Photo] The Girlfriend Route from the rap station.
Girlfriend Route.
[Hide Photo] Girlfriend Route.
Marilyn leading in Winslow Wall.
[Hide Photo] Marilyn leading in Winslow Wall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

damdug Galloway
Savannah, GA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Fun! My daughter renamed this "The Bunny Slope". Sounds a little more PC. Jul 12, 2014
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
[Hide Comment] Hopefully she kicks the moron who named it this in the balls if she meets him. pretty sure I know 20 women this idiot couldn't follow if they hung the draws for him. Jul 13, 2014
[Hide Comment] Finally got on this thing. As good as 5.8 face climbing gets, super classic “easy” climb for the area Aug 3, 2019
Jake Croft
Tucson, Az
[Hide Comment] The name of this route is problematic and should be changed (with or without permission from the first ascensionist, frankly drilling some steel into the wall doesn't entitle you to give a route a sexist name). All it would take is a mountain project admin to change the name and it could be yet another great route at an otherwise wonderful crag.

As suggested above "The Bunny Slope" would make a fine name, or "The Alligator Spine", or "The Fin", or whatever... Jun 28, 2020
[Hide Comment] Route names should not be changed by anyone other than the FA'ist Jun 30, 2020
Alec O
Norwich, VT
[Hide Comment] Route names are not sacred, and FAists aren't gods. This route name is (like others at the WW) gross. It should be changed whether the FAist wants to or not.

I fully support contacting the FAist to get a chance to rename them first, though. Jul 1, 2020
Mike
Phoenix
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Lots of action in the comments section here lately. FWIW I entered the route into the database with it's given name. I have heard people grumble about it over the years, and do feel it's in poor taste, but never believed it was my place to change it. I still don't, but if the first ascensionist (Rodman) or the Powers That Be decide it should be changed, I would happily do so.

I wouldn't even know how to contact Rodman right now. Maybe some in the Flagstaff scene knows how, and can ask him about it? Jul 2, 2020
[Hide Comment] I don't think this route name is gross at all. My interpretation is that Rodman was poking fun at a common scenario where a boyfriend drags his newbie girlfriend to a climbing area, sticks her on an easy route and then has the expectation that he will be belayed on his project. This then proceeds to the boyfriend falling, yelling at his newbie girlfriend for not belaying correctly (even though it was his weakness), and then a fight ensues in front of all others. I have only seen this scenario a thousand times over my climbing career. Having climbed with Rodman from time to time over several years I don't see him as being derogatory toward women or a woman's climbing ability, and doubt the name was given to be derogatory. If this name is offensive to a woman...maybe use it as motivation to be a better climber, develop something and name it The Boyfriend Route. I just don't interpret this as being derogatory, but again, poking fun at a common scenario routinely seen at crags. Jul 2, 2020
adam.b
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] Finding and equipping a route does not give anyone the sole authority to name or rename a route, that's just a made-up rule by grumpy old white men. I think in some scenarios it is respectful to talk to the FAist before changing the name, however in cases where the names are obviously sexist or racist, I don't see a problem with changing the name without the FAist consent. In fact, the problem is when climbers decide that the name must stay because of this made-up rule. If you want to believe that the intentions were good, you also need to think about the impact. And the impact here is that this route makes people (especially women) uncomfortable and in some cases unwilling to climb here. By stating that "intentions were good" is disregarding everyone's feelings on this route name. The obvious consensus is that this route name is sexist, and if we want to be an inclusive community we need to change this route name regardless if Rodman gives his consent. Aug 29, 2020
[Hide Comment] If the name of this route, or any route name for that matter, triggers someone to the point of not being able to climb at a location then they need to go do more psychotherapy. Seriously, with all the movies, billboards, songs, magazine articles, news casts, etc., in society people must be "triggered" all the time. People must be in a dissociative state 24/7 by all these triggers.

It is not an obvious consensus that this route name is sexist. At this point, it is an obvious "consensus" by a minority that has voiced their opinion, but there is no data that there is a majority consensus here. The climbing community by far is one of the most inclusive communities out there. This movement in Arizona has been pursued by people with personal issues, biases and neuroses.

The FAist does have the right to name the route. Guide book authors and websites have the right to not publish the name, but others do not have the right to change it and then publish it. Sorry disagree with you! Your statement that this has to do with a rule made up by "grumpy old white men" is the farthest from reality. Make a better point. Aug 30, 2020
[Hide Comment] All the dudes who are upset by this definitely spot women like this......

alpinist.com/media/web11w/s… Oct 9, 2020
Ivan Cross
Flagstaff
[Hide Comment] The Bunny Slope is offensive to rabbits. Jun 28, 2021
JB Bettis
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] I am shocked that this name remains. Out of all the names I have encountered that are considered offensive in Northern AZ this is by far the most blatant. It implies that femme partners are gumbies! How is that not problematic? How has this not already been redacted or changed? The tide has already turned; this platform changes names of routes that make the crag a less inclusive and empowering place to be. The precedent is set and this route needs to be included. Nov 1, 2022
Karasu Tokioka
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment]
  • ahem

Heres an idea: Lets put this all to rest and come up with a fun new route name for this climb... my suggestion: 'White Privilege'

¯\_ (ツ)_/¯ Nov 11, 2022
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Lots of dudes here virtue signaling about the route name but not a single woman chiming in. Relax guys. May 2, 2023