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Nuts and Bolts

5.8, Trad, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 39 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Northern Wasatch > Ogden > Ogden Canyon > Nuts & Bolts

Description

Originally a slightly spicy trad route, this is currently a very friendly bolted line. The upper crack protects well with gear but the bottom required creative/tiny placements - climb it in whatever style you please (sport, mixed, or traditional).  

Start at the center of the wall. Climb to the first bolt of No Nuts then angle left over the small roof. Continue up the face aiming for the slot in the roof above. Climb through the slot to your choice of bolts on the right or the left. This is a fun lead or can be top roped.

Location

Start at center of wall

Protection

8 bolts + anchor. OR use a standard rack and sew it up

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is the path we took for Nuts and Bolts. Same start as No Nuts. Take a left after the first roof.
[Hide Photo] This is the path we took for Nuts and Bolts. Same start as No Nuts. Take a left after the first roof.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

wasatch-mtn-man
  5.8 PG13
[Hide Comment] Kind of sketchy pro at the bottom, better at the top. PG-13 I would say May 13, 2010
Ryan Henderson
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Definitely PG13 at the bottom. The move before the roof does not protect at all. You're protected by the bolt already 3 feet below you even before you pull the roof. About 2-3 feet above the roof, you can finally protect. This is the only protection I could find until I traversed left over to the main crack (about 10-15ft left and up). So within a 40-50ft section, I had merely clipped a bolt, and placed 2 pieces of gear on pretty strenuous terrain! A tough but enjoyable climb though, if you're good at the grade. Jul 2, 2013
Shawn S. Barker
 
[Hide Comment] That crack up the left is incredibly easy to protect. Tons of good spots for placement. The bottom half can be protected with a medium sized cam or two if you wanted (recommended). Jul 15, 2013
Scott Morris
Bountiful, UT
  5.8 PG13
[Hide Comment] This route has a 5.7 rating in my old Ogden Canyon guidebook from the 90's from Brian Mecham, but it always seemed harder than a 7! I've climbed it a couple times more recently and it feels at least like an 8. May 20, 2015
Oliver Young
Farmington, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Someone bolted this route. I totally disagree with this. It was fine how it was but they added 6 bolts. I could see putting one or two but they should have left the crack free of bolts 3 feet away. Jul 28, 2022
Cody Lee
Utah
  5.8
[Hide Comment] @Oliver from what I’ve found the route was retrobolted last fall, and I’m assuming it was the same party that added the route to the left, a lower bolt on the 10a, + a few new bolts on the Diamond.

I 100% agree it’s very bad form to add bolts to an existing trad route, especially without community/FA approval. This happened on the Ogden classic Macabre wall and we chopped those immediately.

In this case, I think that the bolts in the middle section improve the route even though it only needed 1 or 2 (not 6!) to do this. The protection in that section is small, dicey, and not for 5.8 leaders. I also don’t think this route has the same classic/historical trad status as others, and with bolts it’s probably one of the better entry level “gym to crag” routes in Ogden. Jul 31, 2022
Derek Hubbard
Ogden, UT
 
[Hide Comment] The top two new bolts are pretty poorly placed, IMO. They pull you way left, making the traverse at the top harder than it needs to be. Just bring a cam or two for the upper crack and skip the bolts. Really great route otherwise. Apr 17, 2023