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Routes in Long Dong Silver Area

Angel of Death A3
Darren's Dong C1
Long Dong Silver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Sugar Daddy, The T A3
Type: Trad, Aid, 210 ft, 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Crusher Bartlett, Chip Wilson, May 2008
Page Views: 2,949 total · 25/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Jun 6, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The tower is the obvious gray- and cream-colored formation a couple hundred yards north of the highway, a few miles west of Hanksville. The rock is some species of shale, possibly Mancos shale. Helmets are advised, as the shale sometimes breaks into sharp fragments.
Start on the south face, at the lowest point of the rock, about twenty feet left of the southeast arete (we left an army ring-angle at the start of the climb).
1. Aid the crack, which trends slightly rightwards, past a rotten pillar (careful!) thirty foot up, all the way to an obvious horizontal. Jog left here, and ascend a short steep open book in pale rock, and emerge on to a vertical face. Up this a few feet to a hanging belay with one bolt (1/2-inch by 6-inch) and an excellent 3.5-inch wide slot (100 foot, A3).
2. Continue up and left, passing two bolts, to a bulging stance. Surmount this (third bolt) and belay at two bolts under a steep wide left-facing flake crack (50 feet, A3).
3. Up the crack on large cams, then nail calcite seams just left of a left-facing dihedral/groove to a loose finish (60 feet, A3).
Descent:
Rappel 60 feet from the summit to the end of the second pitch, from about 50 feet of rope wrapped around a coffin-sized pile of dirt and extended to the edge. Rappel 150 feet to the ground.

Location

About ten miles west of Hanksville, easily visible from the road.

Protection

Gear: Pins: 6 large Toucans, 2 large Peckers, 8 assorted Knifeblades and Bugaboos, 6 Lost Arrows, 3 Texas Tacks (12-inch nails), 2 Standard Angles.
Cams: two each 1/2-inch to 3-inch. Three each 3-inch to #5 Camalot.
A selection of nuts, mostly medium to large.
Fifty to sixty feet of rope or webbing for the summit anchor.

Photos

USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Ahhhhhhhh a route made in heaven. Jun 9, 2008