Type: | Ice, 4 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 4,806 total · 40/month |
Shared By: | Jesse Morehouse on Jun 5, 2008 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Description
This climb consists of steps of moderate ice with a long snow or WI2- slog between P1 and P2. It can be made longer by continuing up moderate snow and ice slopes above the upper pillar for as long as your fun meter lets you go.
A popular outing.
P1: Climb to a large bolder on climbers left with bolts (WI3).
Slog through snow with possibly a little WI2-(ish) stuff to the base of the next slab and build an anchor.
P2: Climb slab either to base of pillar or a bolted anchor about 25 feet left of the final pillar under the wall (WI3).
P4: Climb short pillar (2-3 screws or so) and wallow up and left to the first substantial tree which should have a bit of tat on it (WI4).
DESCENT (for DOUBLE 60m ropes)
Rap from tree straight down over the cliff climbers left of the pillar aiming for the bolts at its base. Rap from them to just shy of the boulder above P1 and walk down to said boulder. Rap to ground.
A popular outing.
P1: Climb to a large bolder on climbers left with bolts (WI3).
Slog through snow with possibly a little WI2-(ish) stuff to the base of the next slab and build an anchor.
P2: Climb slab either to base of pillar or a bolted anchor about 25 feet left of the final pillar under the wall (WI3).
P4: Climb short pillar (2-3 screws or so) and wallow up and left to the first substantial tree which should have a bit of tat on it (WI4).
DESCENT (for DOUBLE 60m ropes)
Rap from tree straight down over the cliff climbers left of the pillar aiming for the bolts at its base. Rap from them to just shy of the boulder above P1 and walk down to said boulder. Rap to ground.
Location
From the Sherman town site winter parking snow shoe or ski up the closed road for 5-15 min until you see the large ice climb on your left across the drainage. Follow the trail or pick the best route over to it. You might be able to hike in boots only if the approach is well beaten down since almost all traffic here is for this climb.
CO
Boulder, CO
Note: we had 68m ropes. We lead two full pitches either as far as the rope would go or nearly so to reach the bolt anchors left of the base of the WI4 curtain. Another pitch of slightly less than 68m (had as much as 50' to spare) lead to another set of bolts above the curtain (left side). There's little reason to count the crux as pitch 4, the way the route description on MP currently reads. The WI4 curtain can be topped out in 3 pitches from the base. If there's a 4th pitch to consider, it's above the curtain. Don't be lazy. If it's safe to do so, slog another 70-100m past the top out of the WI4 pitch and then decide whether to turn back or to finish the route by climbing another potentially full length pitch of sustained WI3.
Regarding Jesse's point below, this route was indeed cold. Both my partner and I wore Spantiks and had cold toes until around noon when things warmed up (subzero in the morning, high of 20F; our pace was casual). Jan 29, 2018