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Tourist Trap

WI4+ M5, Mixed, Ice, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 21 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Ouray (Ice/Mixed) > Camp Bird Rd
Warning Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb the ice in the dihedral immediately right of Slip Slidin' Away up to the big roof and the end of the ice. Traverse out right along a horizontal with fixed pins to a fixed pin anchor. There is a ledge as big as a table top from which to belay. Continue up the pockets and thin cracks right above the belay or step right ten feet and go up the ice-filled chimney that has some little ice hummocks. Rock pro is needed for sure. One can angle up and left and find more ice out left or just go straight up.

There are three variations/possibilities.

You have to climb the second pitch no matter what the conditions of the ice. If you can climb the traverse out of the first pitch of Tourist Trap, you climb the second pitch. This is a two pitch climb.

Most rap from here, but in cooler years, you may be able to add another pitch.

This is a decent route worth doing if you are in the area.

Location

Up the Camp Bird rd from Choppo's in the same gully as Slip Slidin' Away.

Protection

Screws for the ice, a cam or two to supplement the pins towards the end (optional). Doubles and a few long slings helpful to minimize rope drag.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Brian leading his way up Tourist Trap.  Very thankful he took that one....
[Hide Photo] Brian leading his way up Tourist Trap. Very thankful he took that one....
Griz starting off.
[Hide Photo] Griz starting off.
A rainbow of variations for the second pitch of Tourist Trap.
[Hide Photo] A rainbow of variations for the second pitch of Tourist Trap.
Tourist Trap in exceptional conditions with a spicy lead to the trees.
[Hide Photo] Tourist Trap in exceptional conditions with a spicy lead to the trees.
Edwardo finishes second pitch of Tourist Trap, 2017.
[Hide Photo] Edwardo finishes second pitch of Tourist Trap, 2017.
The 2nd pitch Tourist Trap - self portrait.
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Photo: Andrew McClean.
[Hide Photo] The 2nd pitch Tourist Trap - self portrait. Photo: Andrew McClean.
Photo of Charlie Faust by Adam McClatchie.
[Hide Photo] Photo of Charlie Faust by Adam McClatchie.
Classic 'old skool' anchor atop P1 of Tourist/Talisman Sim.
[Hide Photo] Classic 'old skool' anchor atop P1 of Tourist/Talisman Sim.
Tourist Trap, Winter 2007.
[Hide Photo] Tourist Trap, Winter 2007.
Jim Black making the final moves on Tourist Trap.
[Hide Photo] Jim Black making the final moves on Tourist Trap.
Betty Thorson at the end of the ice on Tourist Trap. The route follows the roof to the right. Note the anchors in  upper right in the photo.
[Hide Photo] Betty Thorson at the end of the ice on Tourist Trap. The route follows the roof to the right. Note the anchors in upper right in the photo.
Betty Thorson on Tourist Trap. To the left is Slip Sliding Away. Senn from Camp Bird Road.
[Hide Photo] Betty Thorson on Tourist Trap. To the left is Slip Sliding Away. Senn from Camp Bird Road.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brandon Groza
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] Tourist Trap is the last climb in the video:

vimeo.com/56726472 Jan 4, 2013
Kurt Ross
  WI5- M5
[Hide Comment] Sick vid, Brandon! Jan 6, 2013
Jason Brown
Carbondale, CO
[Hide Comment] Awesome outing! Jan 30, 2017
[Hide Comment] The first piton on the traverse fell out today, and we didn't have a hammer to put it back in. It protects fine with a gray and/or blue Camalot. It's a ways to the second piton, and you'd have a nasty pendulum if you fell on lead, or following, without one of those. Jan 27, 2019
jselwyn
Grand Junction, CO
[Hide Comment] New 2 bolt anchor as of winter '22/'23. Dec 27, 2022