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Unknown 5.10d

5.10d, Sport, 50 ft,  Avg: 1.7 from 7 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon

Description

A fun little route that is rarely climbed. Ascend slopers to arete and step left to follow crack (crux) to a great horizontal and the anchors. If I was to do this route again, I'd skip the last bolt and bring along some small nuts and TCUs for the crack which is likely safer.

Location

The lone route immediately right of the Brown Sugar/10,000 Maniacs wall. It climbs slopers to the distinctive arete in the corner.

This is route #94 in the 1999 D'Antonio guide.

Protection

Bolts but would recommend some thin gear for final crack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Routes between Brown Sugar Wall and Jack and Diane.
[Hide Photo] Routes between Brown Sugar Wall and Jack and Diane.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
[Hide Comment] All the bolts were spinning except the second one. I took the arete to the top instead of the dihedral. Reached the anchors and my foot blew sending me 15 feet to the sloping ledge. It was definately a hard arete. Slightly overhanging and no holds or footholds towards the top. IF you do it this way it's defiantely not any 5.10.

The Dihedral though is the way. I would also bring some gear for it and skip the last clip Oct 11, 2010