Type: Trad, 2000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter (alt leads) Nov 4th, 2002
Page Views: 3,262 total · 25/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jun 3, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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This is the longest route on the Eastern Reef apart from the Traverse of the Great White Wall
P1) Climb the open slab that has a dark brown hanging slab at its top. 200' 5.4
P2).Drop down to the left then follow the edge of the slab. 200' 5.4.
P3)Continue up the edge. 200' 5.5
P4)Move belay about 50'to the left to the foot of a chimney slot. Climb slab and crack then cross over righ to lower slab that's left of a wide crack. Climb over the step and belay near a large flake.200' 5.6.
P5).Straight up the edge of the slab to a small spike belay.200' 5.4. P6). Up the notch then to a ledge with boulders. 200' 5.4.
P7). Straight up.200' 5.0
P8).Continue. 200'5.0 P9).400' of 4th class to a fine summit.

Descend slabs to the south (4th class) to the notch then north down more slabs and gully. At one point about midway when the descent gets steep find a slot crack out to the left,which makes the descent easier.The descent takes about an hour or more.


Drive about 2 miles from the I.70 entrance to a pull off just before a wash on the right. Walk about 10 mins to Little Spotted Wolf Canton.Walk through SWC just passed the Triangle slab of Dark Side etc to a long broken ridge on the left. Scramble up below the ridge for about 200'to the foot of a clean open slab.Cairn


Friends: #.05 to #3 Mostly for natural belays. Slings .One 200'rope


Andrew May
Westminster, CO
Andrew May   Westminster, CO
Whats the pro like on this one?
I've noticed lots of the climbs in the swell have earned ratings of PG13 and above. Does this one take gear well? It looks like a fun climb, and a good one to get the GF out on.
Thanks! Sep 26, 2009
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
I would not recommend this route if you have not climbed there and used to slab climbing.. Try 1000'of Fun if you want to experience a moderate route.I myself am not familiar with the term PG13 , many routes below 5.7 are run out Sep 26, 2009
Andrew May
Westminster, CO
Andrew May   Westminster, CO
Thanks for the suggestion! Sep 28, 2009
John Evans
  5.6 PG13
John Evans  
  5.6 PG13
Craig Hughes and I (John Evans) climbed this on April 28th, 2012, and found the register unsigned by any other parties other that the first ascensionists. Guess we were the second ascent? Fun route, that is generally low angle all. A bit of fun route finding getting started and part way up. Between hard choices and easier ones, we kept it at 5.6 or easier.

Then while figuring out what to do for the afternoon, Paul Ross and his wife walked up!

Thanks for all the great routes in the Swell, Paul! We really enjoyed chatting with you and the photos from the next day. Jun 2, 2012