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Routes in B Crags (Spotted Wolf Canyon)

Innominate T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Angle of Repose T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bonawaim T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cry Wolf T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancin' in the Dark.II 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great North Ridge, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hot Buttered Popcorn with Salt T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Laughing Lizard, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Naked Truth., The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ranting Ravens. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raucous Wren., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebus 5.10 T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rosco's Delight T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Scorpion Slab T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Seaside Stroll T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Sidewinder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Super Crack of the Reef T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wandering Poet T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Windstorm Grove T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Paul Ross, Andy Ross, Layne Potter. May 29th, 2008
Page Views: 2,059 total, 18/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jun 3, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Move up a short ramp to a curving under-cut crack. This route is well protected and nice climbing.
P1)Using the under-cut crack reach a high hold then up to 3 Pro Bolts ,passed these and continue up cracks to the top and double anchors. Nice climbing. Rap the route.

Location

Starts to the right of Naked Truth in the center of the slab at the top of the Talus below an under- cut crack.

Protection

One set of stoppers cams from blue tcu to 3" two 60m ropes for rap. Some slings.
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
We did remove all the loose we could find on the FA and the odd repeat ascents later on. Judging by comments on this climb and other repeats on routes in this area it seems this sandstone rock is "alive" and does continue to decompose.This certainly adds to the great adventure of sandstone climbing.I guess love it or leave it.We loved it.Cheers from the damp UK. Mar 24, 2014
We placed nothing larger than a gold Camalot, but also a small tcu and some stoppers. Steep parts are well protected and fun. Two less-steep sections have easy climbing but loose rock and no protection, so tread lightly on those! Mar 23, 2014
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Hi ..Yes the joys of sandstone,the rock is an adventure in itself.... If you are talking about the flake at the very start of Dark Side I did have a cam in that flake, just hard to see in photo . Certainly better than nothing . We are just back from that area . We put up two more 5.10's one just to the left of Dark Side and one just to the right . Both are very well protected with cams and bolts Oct 29, 2008
Hazen Goodyear  
  5.9
I can see in your pic that one difference (in the route that I took) was I when under and then up the the big hollow flake. I put a cam behind the flake. Maybe not such a good idea, but at the time I felt ok with it. It wasn't until I was on-top the flake when I looked down (through the inside of the flake) and realized I could see my #2 cam, head, steam, beaner, and all. But thats climbing right? sometimes you do know what your going to get. Oct 28, 2008
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
Thanks for putting some hard pullers on the climb! This would be I'm sure the second ascent so maybe they have cleaned off most of the loose holds,I thought our party had done that,maybe at times they were a tad off route ? .Anyway glad you liked the climb . You would enjoy Faith Hope and Clarity , On a Wing and a Prayer,Just Dreams and Feeding the Rat . These all have good rock. Oct 23, 2008
Hazen Goodyear  
  5.9
Awesome route! Just be careful what you grab. I belayed 4 people up to me and they all broke off good sized holds. Oct 20, 2008