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Routes in Black Rain Wall

Black Rain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Husband is Going to Kill Me (aka. Start the Car) TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
pyscho-metric S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 817 total · 7/month
Shared By: Kristi D on Jun 3, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

The route pretty much follows a straight line from the ground to the pine tree at the top.

Location

Start in the middle of the wall under a tall pine tree (60 feet up). Route is to the left of the popular "black rain" sport route.

Protection

Bolted anchors are located 2 feet below the top of the cliff next to the pine tree. They are really easy to miss if you don't know exactly where to look, so keep your eyes open for the tree. You have to get right up on the edge and look over to see the bolts. Long webbing required to use the bolted anchors. Many get lazy and anchor from the tree, which is highly discouraged.

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Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
Setting up top rope anchors on this climb is the worst. Since there are bolted anchors, using naturals anchors is out (per park rules). But the bolted anchors are down on a ledge that you should be tied into to access. If you're like me and have long arms, you can just barely attach runners to the bolts by lying down over the side. And even then, the runners have to be about 20 feet long. Have fun equalizing! Then when you throw the rope down, you have to throw it just so, so that the tree doesn't catch and so it doesn't get caught on the ledges on the climb.

I came back and led this on 1/3/2016. A much better experience when you're looking for placements. A great lead for practicing gear skills, just make sure to place often due to the numerous ledges. Aug 17, 2015