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Dirty Rotten Scoundrel

5.6, Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 75 votes
FA: unknown
N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Pilot Mountain > 07. Little Amphitheater

Description

Climb left-facing dihedral through short chimney to ledge, continue to anchors.

Location

Route starts in the dihedral left of Place Your Bet

Protection

Bolted anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Getting to the overhang...
[Hide Photo] Getting to the overhang...
Patrick Hines starting the moves past the overhang.
[Hide Photo] Patrick Hines starting the moves past the overhang.
Mark Glaspey on "Dirty Rotten Scoundrel".
[Hide Photo] Mark Glaspey on "Dirty Rotten Scoundrel".
Dirty Rotten Scoundrel route.
[Hide Photo] Dirty Rotten Scoundrel route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Bolted anchors at the top. Crux move is beneath the small overhang. You must move left out onto the face to pass the overhang. After passing the overhang, you come to a large ledge that is 10 ft below the anchors. It's really not worth it to try and climb past that ledge. Jun 15, 2009
Rmsyll
Winston-Salem, NC
[Hide Comment] What is 'Scoundrel' and what is 'KMA' has been confused by the anchor placement rather than previous natural anchors. The rope line strictly on the wider face (after starting in the dihedral) is 5.8, as Kelley gave to 'KMA'; and the dihedral is not 5.6, nor the right face. Current usage is to name the third set of anchors 'KMA' and ignore any reference to 'Scoundrel'. A lot of beginners have been tormented and terrified by being put on these anchors and goaded up behind the peculiar overhang no matter what. David's comment about the finish does not apply to straight up the white face below the anchors: that too is 5.8 unlike the little corner to the right.

LL Feb 20, 2011
Walt Barker
Western NC
 
[Hide Comment] Fun TR to warm-up. Climbed on the face the right of the dihedral. Much harder than 5.6 if you don't use the dihedral. Apr 8, 2012
Vince Buffalini
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] DRS is an excellent trad lead for a beginner leader. The dihedral offers a great variety of protection and the climbing is straight forward and fun. Mar 25, 2015
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
[Hide Comment] ¡I got stuck in the chimney! Jun 4, 2015
Caleb BR
Landis, NC
[Hide Comment] Sustained climbing for the grade, and makes an easy, if a little sketchy gear lead. Climbs the chimney climbers right of the sport route, Hot Yoga, and finishes on a pair of bolts with chains above the rim if memory serves. Be careful placing gear, as there is a lot of suspect rock on this route! Jul 28, 2023