Type: Sport
FA: Guy Lords and Ken Trout
Page Views: 866 total · 7/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 2, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

I am surprised this one isn't in the database. The old approach (grappling up the barb wire fence dumped one close to the routes in the area loosely described as the "Fence Area".

As sport climb goes, this one was pretty sporty. I wasn't using a clip stick in those days, so I thought getting to the first clip was pretty bold. This was around '93 so things might have changed a bit.

Cool route! Maybe KT or RW, or RA can supply some FA info.

Per Mike Gilbert: This route was a lot of fun and very powerful (or more likely I'm weak.) The route is easy to spot because there are three fairly low bolts within 6 feet of one another. The route is well protected throughout and possibly even slightly over bolted. It starts with a series of difficult bouldery moves and a low crux. Around the halfway point, the feet are very sparse which got me to do a fun but very dynamic move. From the crux, it eases up a little and then a lot as you get closer to the top. There is a set of anchors, a large bulge, and then another set of anchors, but I didn't see the bolts in between (if there were any).

Location

It is in the Fence Area (NTM, in same area as Electrocuticles.

Protection

3 bolts; scary getting to first one (c. '93?).

Photos

Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
A very bouldery start leads to fun movement up the pillar. If you want to keep it fun overall I would suggest stick clipping the 2nd bolt and not risking a potential broken ankle... but after all they're your ankles. BA Feb 15, 2009
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
Guy Lords and I did this one, about 1991 or maybe early '92. People where getting hurt on it, so someone else added the second bolt much later. Jun 30, 2009