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Road Kill [Suggest Change]
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft |
| FA: | Greg Allen, 1993? |
| Page Views: | 93 total · 1/month |
| Shared By: | gregybn on Jun 2, 2008 |
| Admins: | grk10vq |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Falcon Closure
Details
Seasonal peregrine falcon closures effective March 1-August 1 each year.
For more information on the closure and to check closure dates and maps visit: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
For more information on the closure and to check closure dates and maps visit: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Description [Suggest Change]
Nice, sustained steep face climb for the first 40'... then pass a small sloping ledge to the top part of the face.
I scoped all these cliffs and chose the most direct and challenging line.
Everywhere else along this section has a significant ledge (about 12") at 2/3 height (this discontinuity detracts from a sustained climb)
Regardless of the ethics and aesthetics of the climb (some folks may whine about it being contrived?)... it's actually quite fun and challenging - in a perverse sense.
Much of the climbing uses the (remaining) semicircular halves of the vertical drill holes as sidepulls and pinches. There are enough small flakes and edges to keep your footwork precise.
It was the first, and probably remains the best, example of blasted road cut climbing.
Just do it.
I scoped all these cliffs and chose the most direct and challenging line.
Everywhere else along this section has a significant ledge (about 12") at 2/3 height (this discontinuity detracts from a sustained climb)
Regardless of the ethics and aesthetics of the climb (some folks may whine about it being contrived?)... it's actually quite fun and challenging - in a perverse sense.
Much of the climbing uses the (remaining) semicircular halves of the vertical drill holes as sidepulls and pinches. There are enough small flakes and edges to keep your footwork precise.
It was the first, and probably remains the best, example of blasted road cut climbing.
Just do it.
Location [Suggest Change]
Look in a recent guide for the start... it used to be the only route there back in the 90's... but I hear there are several(?) more now.
Protection [Suggest Change]
5 bolts and top anchors.
A nice lead... fun to top-rope
Wave to the logging trucks and tourists as they pass by.
Don't play on the road.
A nice lead... fun to top-rope
Wave to the logging trucks and tourists as they pass by.
Don't play on the road.
Photos
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