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Routes in Rock Cuts
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Road Kill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft |
| FA: | Greg Allen, 1993? |
| Page Views: | 84 total · 1/month |
| Shared By: | gregybn on Jun 2, 2008 |
| Admins: | grk10vq |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Falcon Closure
Details
Seasonal peregrine falcon closures effective March 1-August 1 each year.
For more information on the closure and to check closure dates and maps visit: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
For more information on the closure and to check closure dates and maps visit: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Description
Nice, sustained steep face climb for the first 40'... then pass a small sloping ledge to the top part of the face.
I scoped all these cliffs and chose the most direct and challenging line.
Everywhere else along this section has a significant ledge (about 12") at 2/3 height (this discontinuity detracts from a sustained climb)
Regardless of the ethics and aesthetics of the climb (some folks may whine about it being contrived?)... it's actually quite fun and challenging - in a perverse sense.
Much of the climbing uses the (remaining) semicircular halves of the vertical drill holes as sidepulls and pinches. There are enough small flakes and edges to keep your footwork precise.
It was the first, and probably remains the best, example of blasted road cut climbing.
Just do it.
I scoped all these cliffs and chose the most direct and challenging line.
Everywhere else along this section has a significant ledge (about 12") at 2/3 height (this discontinuity detracts from a sustained climb)
Regardless of the ethics and aesthetics of the climb (some folks may whine about it being contrived?)... it's actually quite fun and challenging - in a perverse sense.
Much of the climbing uses the (remaining) semicircular halves of the vertical drill holes as sidepulls and pinches. There are enough small flakes and edges to keep your footwork precise.
It was the first, and probably remains the best, example of blasted road cut climbing.
Just do it.
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