Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: ccox
Page Views: 573 total · 4/month
Shared By: Colin Cox on Jun 2, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Flagstaff Watershed Protection Project- Closures in effect as of 1/25/19 Details

Description

The S shaped crack, and trad test piece of the area. 5.10 to the ledge, then the crux past the flaring slot. Climb up into the slot until it feels impossible to continue, place two bomber blue TCUs in the crack, then surf out left of the slot to a crimp. Slap and sidepull the left side of the slot feature until you find some finishing holds. No second. This route was established before I learned to remove all choss, so beware if you dare.

Location

Just left of Croc Tears.

Protection

Mostly small to extra small cams. The initial 5.10 crack section has marginal gear(#2 or #3) for the last moves to the ledge. If you lay it back it feels blind and insecure to place. Climbing straight in allows you to see the placement for what it is....flared. The upper crux section offers plenty of shallow gear. I recommend placing two pieces in the thin opening before going for the somewhat runout crux section to the chain anchor.

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Maybe this deserves an R in light of recent events. Jun 20, 2015
Colin Cox
  5.12a
Colin Cox  
  5.12a
Maybe so. I improved the description to inform the leader of the seriousness of the route, with good gear recommendations and the CHOSS disclaimer. Maybe we should let the owner of the second ascent decide? Jun 20, 2015