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Routes in Solitude Wall

Back to Nature S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bathtub Boulder Problem V7 7A+
Blow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blow Me S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Brick Toss V4 6B
Climb It Change S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Crocodile Tears S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Deer Cave, The V5 6C
Deferred Prosecution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Derelicte S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Derelicte My Bolts S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Desparete Dancing S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Egypt Air S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Emerald Forest V2 5+
Emotional Rescue S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V9+ 7C
Exfoliation S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flying Flesh S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Free Radical S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Global Shmarming S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hillbilly Elegy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hot Coffee V5 6C
Immodest Monkey S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Little League Drop-Out S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V4- 6B
Modest Mouse S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nature Boy Rick Flare T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Man Lightning S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Original Route, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pharcide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Radical by Nature S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Raven's Perch T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slackline V3+ 6A+ PG13
Snake Run T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Throwable Pipe Memorial S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twist Off S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
White Powdery Substance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: ccox and D. Bloom
Page Views: 996 total, 9/month
Shared By: Colin Cox on Jun 1, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

The start was originally a trad climb with sketchy gear that continues straight up past hard to protect choss. That route has since been disregarded(but props to Ren T. for getting the F.A.) Climb It Change uses the same steep, flaring layaway crack system in the start, but then traverses right into the overhanging face using underclings, a sidepull, and a hard to reel-in edge system. After the crux, punch it past a sinker pocket, some small edges and pods, and a layaway pinch to gain the chains. Pretty sick climb with classic movement. The route was originally bolted by Matt Grecco, with a direct start that has seen no success to date. The alternate start was bolted later.(Edit: Direct start was removed and 5th bolt moved to improve the flow of Climb It Change.)

Location

4th route encountered on trail. On the first impressive and steep red wall.

Protection

Bolts to lower offs.

Photos

Colin Cox  
 
From the two finger work up two holds in the seam then bust way left to a weird gaston in a pod. Up and left from there finishing to the left of the anchor. If you come into the anchor from the right then you have gone the easier way. That's the best way to describe it Marc. Oct 21, 2016
MarcYY
Flagstaff, AZ
MarcYY   Flagstaff, AZ
So you go through the large two finger pocket, two edges, and up through the pinches for the original finish? Oct 19, 2016
Colin Cox  
 
Apparently several climbers have managed to find an alternate finish to this climb that moves out right to the finishing holds of Global Shmarming. The original and most attractive line goes up and left from the last bolt through a difficult boulder problem guarding the chains. This final problem is part of what makes Climb It Change such a rad climb. Climbing the original line will feel more like 13- while escaping the line by moving right will feel more like 12+. Might as well do the final hard moves and take the 13 tick. Oct 19, 2016
Colin Cox  
 
I really didn't think I was going to fall until my right foot popped off a micro gas divet. In the moment there just wasn't any time for crafty ideas like that, but after the huge whip I settled into that ideology. I sent all the moves of the climb and then some, but I just didn't clip the chains. Jun 3, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Maybe you should have turned the fall into a "glory whip":) Jun 2, 2015
Colin Cox  
 
Maybe it's time I gave it another try? Jun 2, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
During my first visit to The Red River Gorge in 95, there were some pro climbers at the Miilitary Wall one day. I watched as one climbed up to the cruxy top of Thirsting Skull, then he dynoed, slapped the chains in mid flight, and screamed with success even as he was still falling. He claimed the send. It was then I learned that while climber's share a history, and an explicit language to describe our endeavors, there are no referees, no yellow cards, and no hardened rule book. Just ourselves. Jun 1, 2015
Colin Cox  
 
David is claiming the F.A. on this one so I'll have to tell my story. With David belaying, I punched it through the last crux to the place I planned on clipping the anchor from. I pulled some rope but feared melting while reefing on my left arm to clip. I quickly decided to climb further to an undercling right at the anchor to avoid a stretchy clip up and right. As I matched the undercling a foot popped. My arms made a good effort to hold the undercling as my body began to plunge down but I hadn't enough left.

David hadn't really noticed what was happening because a buddy of ours, Corey Ellison, had randomly showed up at the climb while I was up there pumped and going for the anchor. There was lots of slack out. I took a 35 footer stopping a few feet above the boulder below. Corey had quite the greeting.

So David goes up next and clips the anchor from where I paused and he lowers from there. I was so rattled from my whipper I decided to give myself the send because I actually climbed higher than David did before whipping with the anchor at my chest. I give myself the F.A. too. May 30, 2015