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Routes in Monitor and Merrimac Buttes

Hollis Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A1 PG13
Hypercrack on the Anchor Chain T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Hypothetical Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Keel Hauling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Merrimac Butte, The Albatross T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monitor Butte, The Plunge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
Stand and Deliver T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Without A Net T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: Trad, Aid, 120 ft, Grade II
FA: Jason Keith and Hollis McCord
Page Views: 91 total, 1/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Jun 1, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is a good way to the summit of the Monitor. You top out of the 5th class at the opposite end of the butte, but the hike across the summit is really cool. Don't fall into a pothole... you might never get out. Rap chains now exist at the top of this.

FInd the corner at the far eastern end of the butte. The corner faces north so you can climb it in the afternoon on a hot day. Climb to a ledge, then out a roof on finger size pieces. The rock is a little soft at the start as water has run down the inside of the crack. Eventually it turns to hands, then wider. ITs about 100 feet to the anchor. AN easy 4th calss slab section then puts you on the summit ridge of the butte.

This is very solid rock for entrada. I think the starter moves would go free at 5.12+. The rest is 5.10+.

Location

The very east end of Monitor Butte in a north facing corner.

Protection

In friends take triples of .75 and 1, then doubles from there to #5. An extra 3.5 or 4 would be nice and if you don't like OW bring a couple of #6's. You'll need slings for the start. The rap might be doable with a seventy... but I doubt it. Take 2X60.

Photos

In case you're wondering, the post-roof crux is about 30' of OW from #4 to #6 Camalot width, part of which seems overhanging.

Unless the leader back cleaned most of the gear in and below the roof, it would be hard to do this in one pitch due to rope drag and the rope running over/through the pieces in the roof.

The rap anchors are about 31 meters off the deck i.e. rapping with a single 60 might or might not work depending on how long your 60 meter rope is.

The summit is at the opposite end of the butte and is mostly an easy walk except for the 15' high summit knob itself which starts with an exposed, unprotected 5.6ish mantel on which most people would want to be belayed -- best not to leave your rope back at the anchors. May 7, 2015
I freed the Hollis route this spring. It was cold, sandy, crumbly and fun.
Gear is from fingers to a number 5.
Out the cave roof start one or two finger pieces to a .5 and a .75 or two into tight hands and then hands to the wide stuff.
Great way to ascend the wall to see the potholes on top!
1 70 meter was all that was needed to rap off the new anchors/chains on top, but you could probably easily use a 60 meter cord.
5.12+ ffa rob pizem 2010
Props to the first ascensionist's for finding another cool pitch in the shade in the desert! Apr 20, 2010