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Power Failure
5.11a,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 9
votes
FA: Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, May, 2008
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Central Joshua…
> Echo Rock Area
> Little Hunk
> Little Hunk - N…
> Little Hunk - NE Face…
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Access Issue: A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art.
Details
The route Energy Crisis and the rock for 50' on either side of its are closed to climbing to protect Native American rock art in the vicinity.
Description
Same start (5.8/9) as Power Line and Power Drop. After about 15 feet move slightly right and climb the face (5.8) up to a horizontal crack. Above is a slightly overhanging face with 4 bolts and two 5.10+ sections.
Location
You can scramble on/off via the slabs to the northwest (class 3).
Protection
CDs .3 to 1 inch. Two #00 metolious tcus (or black aliens) are very useful on the section below the first bolt.
Gear anchor: 2 to 4 inches.
Joshua Tree, CA
Really enjoyed this route, another well protected gem by Bob. Felt there was a real crux at the 3rd bolt, took me a while to read it. Oct 20, 2008