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Power Failure

5.11a, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 9 votes
FA: Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, May, 2008
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Echo Rock Area > Little Hunk > Little Hunk - N… > Little Hunk - NE Face…
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Description

Same start (5.8/9) as Power Line and Power Drop. After about 15 feet move slightly right and climb the face (5.8) up to a horizontal crack. Above is a slightly overhanging face with 4 bolts and two 5.10+ sections.

Location

You can scramble on/off via the slabs to the northwest (class 3).

Protection

CDs .3 to 1 inch. Two #00 metolious tcus (or black aliens) are very useful on the section below the first bolt.

Gear anchor: 2 to 4 inches.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nick C flashing Power Failure.
[Hide Photo] Nick C flashing Power Failure.
Power Failure
[Hide Photo] Power Failure

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bob Gaines
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] While there are no moves harder than 10+, the upper face is sustained, reachy, and tricky; probably 11a for the on-sight leader. High quality rock and fun moves- the upper face is bolted like a sport climb. Getting to the first bolt, however, will be more than a little scary if you don't have the right pro. Jun 1, 2008
Murf
 
[Hide Comment] Didn't place any truly small gear, protected high on Power Line, and then moved a bit down and right, then up to the bolt.

Really enjoyed this route, another well protected gem by Bob. Felt there was a real crux at the 3rd bolt, took me a while to read it. Oct 20, 2008