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Routes in Crackland

Alaska Girls Do Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bring Your Dancing Shoes S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crackbaby T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Iraqy Cracky T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rude Girls S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wavey Gravey S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,026 total, 9/month
Shared By: TobinPetty on May 31, 2008
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

This route requires gear and sports 2 bolts at about 1/2 way height. This route is one of the best that I've climbed in the Interior. The bottom section is run out and the first of the bolts is approx. 20 feet out so be aware if you lead from the ground up. Excellent combination of crimpers and sideway pulls, face climbing and two small roofs make this climb consistently serious. I would say the distinct crux is the pair of roofs below the anchors. Make sure to tape up for pulling the roofs as the rock is unrelentingly sharp!

Location

This climb is easily identified by the 2 shiny bolts about 1/2 way up and the two roofs directly above.

Protection

Small to med gear (cams for the roofs) and a couple of draws for the sport section should be helpful. There are two excellent bolts with links for the anchors. Anchor can be accessed from the top of climb. Find a small Spruce with webbing at the top and you can safely belay partner to anchor point. Route can be Tr'ed.

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