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Routes in Lost Orbit Rock - West Face

Bear Elegance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bear Essence T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bear Pause T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bear Stroll T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bear's Choice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Benevolent Bruin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chiller T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cruise Control T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Gravity Kills S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Henry's M.F. TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
La Paws T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lost my Nut T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Pablo Cruise TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ursa Major S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Chris Miller & Dave Masuo, 1990
Page Views: 1,102 total, 9/month
Shared By: C Miller on May 31, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the right-most climb on the west face and easily identified as a right-facing flake system.

Enjoyable moves up the flake gain a ledge, after which a few easy face moves reach the top of the rock. Downclimb to the climber's right or rappel off bolts on one of the neighboring climbs.

Protection

Gear to 3"

Photos

The climb is listed as "Trad." That usually implies a gear anchor. Also, most folks have a follower and as such clean the gear on the way up. Once the party is at the top, it is often the case that folks break down the belay and wander in search of a rap station or down climb. That said, there doesn't seem to be a problem with the description. Jun 4, 2016
Tabi White
Bermuda Dunes
 
Tabi White   Bermuda Dunes
 
Well, it does indeed require a gear anchor, and kind of a fun and funky one, to boot depending on your strategy. However, it may be helpful to know that not only can you access nearby bolted anchors about 5-7 meters north, you can easily reach at least one more bolted anchor 10-12 meters north if you feel like TRing some of the 10s on this face but are as chicken-hearted as we were about the slabby first bolt on a few of the fun routes on Lost Orbit West. Jun 7, 2016
Daniel C. Serrano
Los Angeles
 
Daniel C. Serrano   Los Angeles
 
I just want to point out something misleading in the description. I did this today with someone who did not want to follow, so I just brought up the bare minimum. Ended up stranded at the top as the rap rings were actually 15-20 feet to the left of the finish. I rapped down, then had to solo up to retrieve my gear. This is for sure a gear anchor and should be noted in the description. Jun 3, 2016
Colin Schour
Big Bear Lake, CA
 
Colin Schour   Big Bear Lake, CA
 
Great climb for first time "liebackers" Apr 30, 2012
Dave Kos
  5.6
Dave Kos  
  5.6
Short, easy, protects well. Aug 15, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Sweet easy trad climb with a great lieback crux and easy to protect. Sep 2, 2009