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Borrowing From Tradition

5.10b, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 120 votes
FA: Jerry, Sigrid, Lynnea and William Anderson
California > Eastern Sierra > Mammoth Lakes Area > Clark Canyon > Area 13 > Area 13 - Left Side

Description

Start up the corner clipping the two bolts on the right. At the second bolt move right on thin face moves until a good hold is reached and vertical progress can be made.

Continue up and follow the exhilarating steep crack above.

Location

Climbs the steep wall right of More Trad Than Rad.

Protection

9 bolts and double anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Routes~
[Hide Photo] Routes~
Kelly clipping the second bolt of Borrowing From Tradition, 10b and unknown climber on Digits Delight.
[Hide Photo] Kelly clipping the second bolt of Borrowing From Tradition, 10b and unknown climber on Digits Delight.
ain't no chalk in this barn door
[Hide Photo] ain't no chalk in this barn door
High up the excellent crack on Borrowing From Tradition, 5.10b
[Hide Photo] High up the excellent crack on Borrowing From Tradition, 5.10b

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

BruceB
Reno, NV
 
[Hide Comment] Great route. A somewhat bold first bolt, then a strenuous hands with thin feet sidestep (crux) after clipping the second bolt, followed by a fun sustained 5.9 crack/layback to the anchors. Note that these anchors are just chains. It is possible to continue up and right to some mussy hooks at the top of a new route on the far right side of this face. May 24, 2012
BAd
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] One of the best. Use a stick clip for the first bolt. Way steep and exciting from start to finish. Keep your feet under you to limit the pump on the sustained crack above. A good rest after the early crux helps.

BAd Jun 7, 2014
Mike Decker
[Hide Comment] The first bolt isn't too bad as long as you're confident with some crack. You can go high or low on the traverse, about the same. The anchor was recently moved farther right which cuts down on rope drag but also makes it more in the way of anyone on I yam. Best solution is just to continue to the chains of that route assuming no one's on it. There's also a fun toprope crack in between the two routes, starts with a funky roof. Worth doing but certainly doesn't need to be bolted. Nov 5, 2021
old5ten
Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA
  5.10- PG13
[Hide Comment] so good!!! Apr 30, 2022
David Verhoeven
George Town, Cayman Islands
  5.9+ PG13
[Hide Comment] Awesome route, lots of fun! Recommend stick clipping if you have one, or alternatively you could plug a couple of cams in the crack before/after the first bolt to avoid ground falls. Wish I brought a rack to try its cousin next door! May 26, 2022