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Routes in Pharaoh's Glen

Bill's Farewell Epic S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ira's Bali S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
When Time Has No Meaning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 27 May 2008
Page Views: 502 total, 4/month
Shared By: James Garrett on May 29, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Private Property Details

Description

When Time Has No Meaning starts low on the arete just to the right of the waterfall on the upper terrace. Look for a bolt low down about 5m above the start. This route merges with the 1991 Tim Broughton climb called Gastronomy Crack toward the top, but does not alter that line. I recently spoke with Tim and he was excited to hear that this was added. His route traverses under the large roof and then after reaching the left side of the crack system, he did cut back right and continued to the top via the arete (same finish as for When Time Has No Meaning). This is contrary to the guidebook topo, incidentally. He also said others had placed the two-bolt belay/rappel station.

Pitch #1: Continue directly up the sharp arete, run out at times, passing about 4 bolts. The leader will encounter a fixed piton up high, which is how GC finishes. Remain on the arete until the top of the crag clipping a bolt (placed as a directional/belay) and traverse to the Gastronomy Crack Ledge two-bolt belay to the right. 5.7, 50m.

Location

Rappel straight down from the exisitng anchors into a gully with one 60m rope. Be very careful not to send scree or rocks down onto Ira's waterfall terraces and rock walls. 20m down the gully, you will be again at the foot of the climb.

Protection

QDs, Set of Camalots to #2 including small Nuts
4 bolts and original belay chains.

Photos

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