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Routes in Hawk's Bill Spire

Children of the Revolution S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pitfalls of Hesitation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Shawn Smith, Brent Olsen,'89
Page Views: 2,314 total, 20/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on May 28, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Getting there the first time is a bit tough but the unreal exposure and some pretty wild climbing way off the ground for Mt. Lemmon make this worth the visit. Two unnatural holds are the crux of this route. The first being a tendon straining mono to a shallow two finger hold. The rest of the climbing is a good deal easier and really fun. If there was a way to yard past the mono I would have tried to climb it again but I would hate to blow a tendon and this one could do it. This is a route with spectacular exposure and if you are used to pulling hard on monos then it should not be missed.

Location

Descend to the top of Hawk's Bill Spire. Rap the first set of chains on the west edge of the top. This rap will take you about 5 feet left of the chain anchors for the route. A decent hanging stance at the bottom left edge of the route is the start of this climb.

Protection

Bolts and chains.

Photos

"Two unnatural holds are the crux of this route"

drilled pockets?

sweeet Apr 30, 2014
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
The crux of Children is figuring out the beta for the lower half. The mono pull is cake; it is so deep that it accepts my entire middle finger and the edge is nice and cushy. I fit 3 fingers into the "2 finger" pocket and it didn't seem that shallow to me (full finger pad). We didn't have daylight to try it more than once each, unfortunately, but this route isn't nearly as hard as one might imagine. The bottom is really strange and awkward though.

It's also worth mentioning that I'm certain this goes without the drilled holds. There is a slopey sidepull near the mono and a bad sloper near the 3 finger pocket. It would be harder, but not outrageously so. Jan 20, 2013
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Always wanted to see some people on this route, saw you guys with the monocular from across Bear Canyon this last Sunday afternoon.

I think Vince was getting ready to fire the final diagonal roof thing.

Pretty cool! Jun 10, 2008